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How to start?

Original Post
Tyler N · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 155

How does one get into basic mountaineering/ice? I'm comfortable doing trad/multipitch, but the amount of gear necessary for actual alpine climbing/mountaineering is intimidating. What do I need to get started on easy terrain?

Dane Burke · · Seattle, Washington · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 85

Assuming you already have backpacking gear (if not plenty of info on that elsewhere) you will need:

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Ice ax and crampons.

Later, picket and pulley.

You've already got trad gear? BOOM, you're set. The partners, skills, knowledge, experience...that's a little harder to acquire. Good luck, have fun, post pictures.

iceman777 · · Colorado Springs · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 60

If you plan on taking all of that gear

hate to break the news to ya

you have already failed.

Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,280

Many many of the Colorado highest peaks can be done with your sturdy boots, some glacier crampons and a nice 75-85cm ice axe..backpack with essentials, normal foul weather gear, compass and maps to make it worth earning your way and route finding on your own. Enjoy...not that tough to do, or expensive.

Andrew Yasso · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 215
Woodchuck ATC wrote:and a nice 75-85cm ice axe..
Woodchuck, are you 7 feet tall?
Andrew Gram · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 3,725

Since you are in Utah, spend a summer doing alpine scrambles and what little alpine rock exists. Solo the South Ridge of Superior a bunch. Do the ridge between the Broads Fork Twins and Superior a bunch. Go cragging in the Lone Peak Cirque. If all that is fun, go climb rock routes in the Tetons and the Wind Rivers. Climbing a lot of alpine rock fast with a small rack is a really good way to build your skill set. Also, you say you are comfortable doing trad multipitch, but what do you mean by that? There is a difference between methodically climbing Schoolroom in LCC and flying up really long routes in Red Rocks. Think in terms of less gear, quick belay changeovers, etc.

For ice climbing, well, no getting around buying ice climbing gear which is expensive. Still, it is not a bad idea to get some strap on flex crampons and a short mountaineering style axe and start trudging up couloirs to get used to that sort of thing. Get a copy of Glacier Travel and Crevasse Rescue, practice the basics, and go climb some easy Cascade volcanoes. Go to Mexico and then Ecuador and climb the high volcanoes to get a gentle intro to putting together a foreign climbing trip.

After that, you should at least have the tools to figure out what you need to do.

Tyler N · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 155
Andrew Gram wrote:Since you are in Utah, spend a summer doing alpine scrambles and what little alpine rock exists. Solo the South Ridge of Superior a bunch. Do the ridge between the Broads Fork Twins and Superior a bunch. Go cragging in the Lone Peak Cirque. If all that is fun, go climb rock routes in the Tetons and the Wind Rivers. Climbing a lot of alpine rock fast with a small rack is a really good way to build your skill set. Also, you say you are comfortable doing trad multipitch, but what do you mean by that? There is a difference between methodically climbing Schoolroom in LCC and flying up really long routes in Red Rocks. Think in terms of less gear, quick belay changeovers, etc. For ice climbing, well, no getting around buying ice climbing gear which is expensive. Still, it is not a bad idea to get some strap on flex crampons and a short mountaineering style axe and start trudging up couloirs to get used to that sort of thing. Get a copy of Glacier Travel and Crevasse Rescue, practice the basics, and go climb some easy Cascade volcanoes. Go to Mexico and then Ecuador and climb the high volcanoes to get a gentle intro to putting together a foreign climbing trip. After that, you should at least have the tools to figure out what you need to do.
Perfect game plan. Thanks man!
Nate K · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 240

rent, borrow or buy used some ice tools, boots, and crampons and do 5 big toprope sessions, after this youll be able to follow most anything. finding partners who are willing to take you out is the hard part, make sure you have something to bring to the table, like a flexible schedule or beer. follow 10-15 pitches or do mock leads and 10 more toprope sessions. borrow screws and start leading.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Mountaineering
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