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> San Diego County
> S San Diego County
> El Cajon Mountain
> Wedge
> Center/Headwall
Black Castle
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.5 from 17
votes
Routes in Center/Headwall
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Black Castle S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Center Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Commander, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Diamond of San Diego S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Right as Rain T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Snaggle Puss S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Sole Purpose S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Storm T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Supply Line S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Tears of Envy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Chris Hubbard, Brian Spiewak, Shannon Scott (2005) |
| Page Views: | 4,508 total · 21/month |
| Shared By: | mschlocker on May 7, 2006 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Advisory
Details
Please avoid raptor nests. El Cajon Mountain- Golden Eagles nested successfully at this site in 2009, after relocating twice between alternate nest sites. The Golden Eagle nest at El Cajon Mountain was not successful in Spring 2010. This nest was successful and fledged young in 2011 - 2021. Details from USFS posted here: fs.usda.gov/detail/clevelan…
The El Cajon Mountain climbing area is in close proximity to the San Diego River Park Foundation property. This property's purpose is to protect and conserve San Diego's threatened habitat and wildlife in perpetuity. Specifically, the San Diego River Park Foundation are protecting golden eagles that nest in the area and ceanothus, a California lilac that is an endemic sensitive plant species. Please avoid and limit recreational activities at the San Diego River Park Foundation property to promote San Diego's threatened habitat and wildlife. Thank you!
The El Cajon Mountain climbing area is in close proximity to the San Diego River Park Foundation property. This property's purpose is to protect and conserve San Diego's threatened habitat and wildlife in perpetuity. Specifically, the San Diego River Park Foundation are protecting golden eagles that nest in the area and ceanothus, a California lilac that is an endemic sensitive plant species. Please avoid and limit recreational activities at the San Diego River Park Foundation property to promote San Diego's threatened habitat and wildlife. Thank you!
Description
Four star sport route right up the center of the headwall of El Cajon Mt, El Cap Wall. Climb up steep rock to a roof. Pull through the roof onto more steep climbing above. A very "soft" 5.11. Mildly pumpy with mostly positive holds. Mental crux is the roof but technical crux actually occurs higher up when the pump starts to set in. Wild position on the headwall with steep yet straightforward climbing and an unusually "fun" roof give this climb two thumbs up. Rap anchor at top.
Location
Just right of Tears of Envy (5.11b), use anchor just down and right of Tears anchor. Starts at the left of the wide vertical black streak at the headwall and finishes up in the right side of the streak. Look for the black roof about 1/3 of the way to the top out anchor which is visible from the start of the climb.
Unnamed route #58, which is actually drawn as #63 in the 10/2005 SDCC guide. Shown as project "P" in the Rock and Ice 9/2005 issue. Reach anchor via the supply line from the command center ledge.
Unnamed route #58, which is actually drawn as #63 in the 10/2005 SDCC guide. Shown as project "P" in the Rock and Ice 9/2005 issue. Reach anchor via the supply line from the command center ledge.
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