Possible crag.
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I found this place a while back but I'm not sure if there are any restrictions for bolting in this area. If its a go then I would like to invite anyone with a drill to come help develop this little gem of a crag. there were a few more down the road that looked nice too. It is located about 15 miles down eagle eye road which you can get to by heading about 10 miles down the Salome highway. Since I am new to developing I would really like to have someone experienced help so I don't mess anything up. There is alot of potential for easy and hard routes here. It's about an hour drive from Phoenix. Let me know if you are interested and I can show you the crag. ps: can anybody tell what type of rock it is? In one of the pictures it looks like a limestone kind off but other areas a wird volcanic rock and maybe conglomerate. I'm not much of a geologist so I would like to know. |
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For starters, locate it on Google Maps to do a quick check on ownership status. You might have to inquire with the BLM or the county. I'm assuming you didn't have to cross any barb wire fences with No Trespassing signs, right? Beware the Wilderness designation; you'll have to claim your *hand drilled* all the routes wink wink. |
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Go climb Courthouse Rock on the south side of I-10. It is similar volcanic rock. The Superstitions also have some fine choss and good rock if you look for it. |
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Step one is find out who owns the land, and I'm afraid that can be a time consuming process. It's not as easy as checking Google, because records are often not up to date in areas like this. It would be a bummer to drop hundreds of dollars on new routes, only to have to chop them and lose access permanently after angering a landowner you didn't know had rights to it. |
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manuel rangel wrote:I've seen friends hand drill in this rock in 15 minutes. I didn't trust those bolts.I can place a 2 1/2 bolt in hard granite in sub 15 min. that is a terrible reason to not trust a bolt. If you are good at drilling by hand, then it shouldn't take you much longer than 15min in most types of rock. I have placed anchors at IC with 3 1/2" bolts in IC in about 25 min. check the rock visually, then with a hammer for solid rock, then bounce test the bolt if you are really concerned. |
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Is this the possible crag? goo.gl/maps/WTvmp |
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Manuel, I look at that thing everytime I drive out to Salome and wonder if that thing was climbable. I had no idea there were routes! once I get rack someday I would love to climb it! maybe put up something new. for the meanwhile however did you see any potential for any sport or sport multipitch climbing? |
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A lot of county assessor land ownership data is on line now. Check the county's website & see. |
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and thanks everyone else, I'm pretty sure it is BLM land and I didn't have to cross any fences or anything that seemed like it could be private land. For bolts I'd probably use longer bolts. would the 5 piece be better or the glue ins? |
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Use glue-ins. A little more work to place, but they cost less, last longer, and are better for soft rock. |
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TBrumme wrote:Use glue-ins. A little more work to place, but they cost less, last longer, and are better for soft rock. climbtechgear.com/wavebolt-…I'll second this, for soft rock, glue-ins are the only way to go. Good luck and do a good job. |
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BLM: |
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JTowny Courthouse is wilderness and requires hand drilling. There are a couple of sport like routes there: Idiopathic 5.9. |