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Routes in Huntington Ravine - Winter Ice
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Central Gully WI1 Steep Snow |
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Cloudwalker T WI4- M4 |
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Damnation Buttress T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b WI3- M3- |
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Damnation Gully T WI3 Steep Snow |
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Diagonal Gully Mod. Snow |
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Escape Hatch T Easy Snow |
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North Gully WI3 Steep Snow |
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Odell's Gully WI2-3 Mod. Snow |
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Pinnacle Gully WI3 Steep Snow |
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Resistance, The T M10 |
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South gully WI1 Mod. Snow PG13 |
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Yale Gully WI2-3 Easy Snow |
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| Type: | Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 1000 ft (303 m), Grade III |
| FA: | W.L. Putnam and Andy Kauffman 1943; Underhill & O'Brien in 1929 climbed rock left of the steepest ice |
| Page Views: | 19,903 total · 115/month |
| Shared By: | Adam Wilcox on Jan 16, 2010 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
The longest gully in Huntington's. If you belay each pitch, (or rope simul-climb it) rock gear will be very helpful.
Crampon your way up the steepening snow slope into the deep, narrow gully. After a few hundred feet you'll come to a short grade 3 / 3+ ice bulge. [Editor's note: The FA bypassed this on rock, the bulge was first climbed by a party led W. Putnam cica 1941-42; at that time it was probably the steepest single 15-20 feet of ice climbed in the Northeast. While Pinnacle Gully's 3 section is much longer, it is generally less steep. R.Hall] Surmount the ice bulge and continue on your merry way up more steep snow with intermittent icy or rocky sections. The gully splits near the top. Trending left will take you up snow and frozen turf to the lip of the ravine. Going right looks like tricky mixed climbing, though I'm sure it would go for the right person.
On my trip up there was a substantial cornice forming what looked like an unavoidable vertical to overhanging snow finish (possibly unstable?). Fortunately, with the help of a few rock moves and some frozen moss, I was able to bypass the cornice on the far left.
Also, (soloists especially!) beware of ice dams on this particular route when conditions warrant. An exploding pressurized ice bulge caused a fatality here a number of years ago.
Crampon your way up the steepening snow slope into the deep, narrow gully. After a few hundred feet you'll come to a short grade 3 / 3+ ice bulge. [Editor's note: The FA bypassed this on rock, the bulge was first climbed by a party led W. Putnam cica 1941-42; at that time it was probably the steepest single 15-20 feet of ice climbed in the Northeast. While Pinnacle Gully's 3 section is much longer, it is generally less steep. R.Hall] Surmount the ice bulge and continue on your merry way up more steep snow with intermittent icy or rocky sections. The gully splits near the top. Trending left will take you up snow and frozen turf to the lip of the ravine. Going right looks like tricky mixed climbing, though I'm sure it would go for the right person.
On my trip up there was a substantial cornice forming what looked like an unavoidable vertical to overhanging snow finish (possibly unstable?). Fortunately, with the help of a few rock moves and some frozen moss, I was able to bypass the cornice on the far left.
Also, (soloists especially!) beware of ice dams on this particular route when conditions warrant. An exploding pressurized ice bulge caused a fatality here a number of years ago.
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