Rumney, yeah!!!
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I'm going to Rumney with some friends over spring break in 1 month. Looking for a little beta? |
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Rumney has all kinds of styles, but many have weird technical, bouldery cruxes. It would help if your bouldering skills are sharp, then add some endurance for the longer steep routes. |
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Plenty of forum topics about the where to questions... try the search feature on the top right of your screen. |
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why dont you go somewhere warm? you will definitely be sleeping on the snow if you are planning to camp in a tent. theres a hannaford down the road. |
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1. Boulder! Most Rumney routes are boulder problems separated by good rests. Of course there are exceptions, but that's the general idea. |
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Thanks guys. I haven't sport climbed outside in quite a while, and have been training 4 days a week indoors, so the best I can give is an (un)educated guess. I've bouldered a few V6's in different styles (to the extent that indoor bouldering grades can tell you how well you're gonna do on routes - tenuous relationship, I know) and am getting close on a couple 7s. My guess is that I'll be projecting between upper 11s and mid 12s. I really want to try to work Black Mamba, Crusher, Technosurfing, Whiptide, and mayyybbe Man Overboard (though I'm really flying blind as to whether any/all of these are within my capacity). Most of my partners climb in the same general range, with our rope gun clocking in around V8. |
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Jon Frisby wrote:Thanks guys. I haven't sport climbed outside in quite a while, and have been training 4 days a week indoors, so the best I can give is an (un)educated guess. I've bouldered a few V6's in different styles (to the extent that indoor bouldering grades can tell you how well you're gonna do on routes - tenuous relationship, I know) and am getting close on a couple 7s. My guess is that I'll be projecting between upper 11s and mid 12s. I really want to try to work Black Mamba, Crusher, Technosurfing, Whiptide, and mayyybbe Man Overboard (though I'm really flying blind as to whether any/all of these are within my capacity). Most of my partners climb in the same general range, with our rope gun clocking in around V8.I think you're right to be thinking about routes at Waimea. Techno and Whiptide will surely be dry (the boulder cruxes on both are probably V4 or 5). Consider checking out Big Kahuna--it's a great bouldery route with a crux ~V6. It is always dry. Man Overboard is a great route, but really frustrating (crux is the last move). It's also likely to be windy and cold under the roof. The routes over at Orange Crush (Black Mamba, Crusher) will probably not be dry. Orange Crush is the wettest cliff at Rumney and holds snow/ice for a long time. Main Cliff will be a good bet. Check out Peanut Man (12a now that a hold broke). Also, Social Outcast at Bonsai is a great 12a, though it's more pumpy than bouldery. It would probably be dry, though Bonsai tends to be a bit cold. If you're into getting off the beaten path, Prudential is awesome. It's really sunny and the 12s on the cliff are excellent. |
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Jay Knower wrote: I think you're right to be thinking about routes at Waimea. Techno and Whiptide will surely be dry (the boulder cruxes on both are probably V4 or 5). Consider checking out Big Kahuna--it's a great bouldery route with a crux ~V6. It is always dry. Man Overboard is a great route, but really frustrating (crux is the last move). It's also likely to be windy and cold under the roof. The routes over at Orange Crush (Black Mamba, Crusher) will probably not be dry. Orange Crush is the wettest cliff at Rumney and holds snow/ice for a long time. Main Cliff will be a good bet. Check out Peanut Man (12a now that a hold broke). Also, Social Outcast at Bonsai is a great 12a, though it's more pumpy than bouldery. It would probably be dry, though Bonsai tends to be a bit cold. If you're into getting off the beaten path, Prudential is awesome. It's really sunny and the 12s on the cliff are excellent.sweet deal. Thanks Jay! |
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The Blackjack boulders are definitely worth a visit, and if it's cold you've got a better shot at keeping warm bouldering than dangling on the end of a rope. If you're into it, check out some of my faves: |
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Hey Jay- might as well hit bouldering in Waterville valley as well ??? it's pretty close by |
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If the Main cliff is open, it should be great in March, but the Ironman section of it is often closed for nesting peregrines then. Keep an eye for postings about that here or the orange signs posted on the kiosk or trees around the cliff |
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It could be pretty cold, snowy/icy, and downright difficult in March. My opinion is that indoor bouldering V6 or not is really no match for 11 and 12 outdoor sport routes.... But go for it, good luck! |
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Russ Keane wrote:It could be pretty cold, snowy/icy, and downright difficult in March. My opinion is that indoor bouldering V6 or not is really no match for 11 and 12 outdoor sport routes.... But go for it, good luck!While I agree about the weather, don't let the discussion of indoor bouldering grades discourage you from trying Techno and Whiptide. V6 is about all I'm doing indoors and those routes went just fine for me. In fact, I don't think my climbing partner has ever climbed a V6 indoors or out, and she made the crux of Techno look like a walk in the park when she redpointed. Best of luck with your trip! |
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The folks at the Rumney Village Store are great. |
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john strand wrote:Hey Jay- might as well hit bouldering in Waterville valley as well ??? it's pretty close byJohn, thanks for the Waterville shoutout! I was going to suggest it, but during that time, it should still be pretty snowy. Last year had far less snow than this year, and there was snow until mid April. |
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M Sprague wrote:If the Main cliff is open, it should be great in March, but the Ironman section of it is often closed for nesting peregrines then. Keep an eye for postings about that here or the orange signs posted on the kiosk or trees around the cliffI saw somewhere that that started a little later, but I'll for sure confirm before climbing. Thanks for the heads up |
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Jon Frisby wrote:I'm going to Rumney with some friends over spring break in 1 month. Looking for a little beta? 1) what should I focus on for my last bit of training? 2) how's the weather looking? I can do cold and wet, but I'm wondering whether there will be reasonably dry routes. 3) where should I camp, get groceries, etc.? Thanks guys!Rumney is great, but at that time I would seriously consider heading south...or west. |
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Any tips for power endurance-y routes in that range? I've got pretty big hands and sausage fingers and am not great on the crimpy granite in NY. I heard Social Outcast was a must-do for people like me |
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You might check out the New Wave...there's a couple 12a's there that are without extreme bouldery cruxes. Not sure how New Wave will compare wetness wise (probably better than OC but not as good as main cliff I would imagine). They are called Weevil Kneivel and Vallee Daze and are both sweet. |
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Stone Temple Pilot at the Prudential might be what you are looking for and there are some other great routes right next to it. The Prudential |
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Jon Frisby wrote:Any tips for power endurance-y routes in that range? I've got pretty big hands and sausage fingers and am not great on the crimpy granite in NY. I heard Social Outcast was a must-do for people like meOrangahang would be good if it is dry. easy to check if you go uphill from Bonsai to check it out. definitely Outcast. Jedi Mind tricks at vadar should be dry |