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How to climb denali

Original Post
Questmos · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 0

Climbing denali is on my bucket list and I wanted to start my journey by reading different Denali related topics.

Any reference that would help me is highly appreciated.

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

The "Internet" would provide a great many books available on Denali. You must do a "search," first.

Meme Guy · · Land of Runout Slab · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 325
Brian C. · · Longmont, CO · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 1,100
Meme Guy · · Land of Runout Slab · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 325

Beat you to it brian!

Questmos · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 0

I found the perfect how-to climb denali guide here - a very educational post about climbing denali. travelthewholeworld.com/cli…

JohnnyG · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 10

That "travel the world" post is ok. But it misses one essential: learning how to camp in the winter. You can climb stairs up the wazoo and have all the gear you need. But when you are on the mountain, you need to know when and how to stop and warm up numb toes. Or what to do if/when your gear gets soaked.

Best advice I got when preparing for Denali was to do lots of winter camping. Spend a few weekends camping up on Mt Washington. (or on the gnarliest mountain in you area)

Steve Williams · · The state of confusion · Joined Jul 2005 · Points: 235

The Organization of an Alaskan Expedition. . .Boyd N. Everett, Jr.
Denali Climbing Guide . . . R. J. Secor
Surviving Denali. . . Jonathan Waterman
Mount McKinley Climber's Handbook Glenn Randall
The Hall of the Mountain King Howard H. Snyder
White Winds Rick Wilcox
Denali's West Buttress Colby Coombs

Meme Guy · · Land of Runout Slab · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 325
JohnnyG wrote:That "travel the world" post is ok. But it misses one essential: learning how to camp in the winter. You can climb stairs up the wazoo and have all the gear you need. But when you are on the mountain, you need to know when and how to stop and warm up numb toes. Or what to do if/when your gear gets soaked. Best advice I got when preparing for Denali was to do lots of winter camping. Spend a few weekends camping up on Mt Washington. (or on the gnarliest mountain in you area)
So true. People even forget that shitting is part of the equation, yeah that can get cold quick.
Mike Soucy · · Longmont, CO · Joined May 2006 · Points: 111

+1 for Colby Coombs' book.
As well as joining a guided trip with his company, AMS. Denali is a high altitude winter camping trip with lots of logistics. They have it dialed.

george wilkey · · travelers rest sc · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 235

check out this trip report

14ers.com/php14ers/triprepo…

Josh Allred · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 161

What is your climbing experience? Pick some smaller mountains and move your way up 14ners. Get some of the 14ners (Rainier, Shasta, Whitney, Washington) under your belt and then give Denali a shot. You don't need to be in a rush at 34 years old. Endurance just gets better with age if you stay in shape. Set some SMART goals.

Get lots of winter camping experience. Youll be bogged down by weather in AK.

Read Freedom of the Hills and Mark Twights book on Alpine Climbing.

Martin le Roux · · Superior, CO · Joined Jul 2003 · Points: 401

Surely the best advice on climbing Denali is this article: ehow.com/how_8458258_climb-…. Especially the importance of bear canisters.

Todd R · · Ophir · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 20

Hey Questmos,
As you progress toward your goal, if you have any specific questions, I'm happy to help as possible. I've worked as a guide on Denali since the early 90's and think I have a pretty good grasp of how things work up there. Feel free to PM for contact info, if you'd like.

Full disclosure- I also run one of the concessioned Denali guide services, but I spend a ton of time just helping folks find answers to their questions about climbing big, cold mountains, so you won't get a sales pitch...

Vaughn Fetzer · · Durango, CO · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 70

Alaska Climbing by Joe Puryear. Surprised it hasn't been mentioned yet.

Paul-B · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 115
Martin le Roux wrote:Surely the best advice on climbing Denali is this article: ehow.com/how_8458258_climb-…. Especially the importance of bear canisters.
Shit, that sounds doable. Six easy steps!
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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