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Training for Climbing and Mountaineering

Original Post
Chris Freye · · Seattle · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 30

I think I have developed a regiment that will work for me but I was wondering what people's opinion was on the topic since multiple minds are better than one.

My general goal is to eventually be able to climb solid 11 trad and 12 sport as well as improve on my ice/mixed climbing and mountaineering in general.

My week in general will look like:

Monday:
Climb

Tuesday:
Lower Body Lifting
* Squats
* Deadlifts
* Core
* Calves

Wednesday:
Run

Thursday:
Climb

Friday:
Upper Body Lifting
* Bench Press
* Lats
* Triceps and Biceps
* T-Row
* Military Press

Saturday
Run or climb outside

Sunday
Rest

I feel like the lifting has greatly improved my general fitness and it helps me develop muscles which normally don't get used in climbing as much.

Thoughts?

jmeizis · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 230

It seems like it's pretty good. If you want to improve your rock climbing skills I'd have a more involved plan beyond just climbing. You have to know where you are to know where you're going.

I might also trade running for bicycling or swimming. Swimming I think is a more full body aerobic workout and is lower impact than running.

I feel like the best workout I've done for ice and alpine climbing was remodeling my house, a true full body workout. After a weekend of gutting my bathroom and tiling and all that shit I felt pretty unstoppable on the ice.

Andy Hansen · · Longmont, CO · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 3,130

More specificity and variation would improve this schedule greatly. Just "climbing" will generally be ineffective for multiple reasons but motivation would be the biggest loss. Just "climbing" can be great and fun but it's not a motivating factor to get off the couch. I generally train for sport climbing and trad climbing in a similar way but adding bouldering to the mix will greatly increase your power on harder sport routes. But at least be more specific with your training and also add variety.

DannyUncanny · · Vancouver · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 100

Needs way more uphill hiking and running

beytzim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2013 · Points: 30

My two cents:
Don't bother doing biceps or triceps specifically. Stick to the big compound exercises. Wendler's 5/3/1 will complement your climb training very well. Regarding cardio, split your workouts into a high intensity/interval session like hill sprints; medium intensity medium length; low intensity/weighted pack/long duration.

TheBirdman Friedman · · Eldorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 65

You should get Steve House's new book "Training for the New Alpinism".

Dustin Drake · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 5

Essential training for mountaineering includes putting on a pack and hiking a lot of miles uphill.

Mike Belu · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 135
Dustin Drake wrote:Essential training for mountaineering includes putting on a pack and hiking a lot of miles uphill.
Agreed.
d powledge · · Montana · Joined May 2009 · Points: 21

+1 on the new Steve House book. So far I've found it extremely well written and informative

Mark R · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
TheBirdman wrote:You should get Steve House's new book "Training for the New Alpinism".
464 pages?!?! I just added this to my wish list but damn that is a thick book.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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