Help with Ice Boot Sizing

I am hoping to get some insight on boot fit. I currently live in a place with no chance to try on a variety of boots so I am flying in the dark a little.

I have a pair of silver bullet La Sportiva Trango Extreme, size 46. I bought them used, and they are roughly a size too big. They are sloppy even with two big pairs of socks, and have holes thru the liner and thru the leather patch on the back from the slop. The ankles have all but collapsed.

I want to buy a pair of Nepal Evo Gtx, but don't know if I should go 45 or 45.5. I wear a 45 in Scarpa Approach shoes, 43.5 in TC Pros, 29.5 in Scarpa boots. I am hesitant to go only a half size down from my Trango size given how trashed they are now.

Super nitpicky details here, hopefully some of you guys who have worn both can shed some light. Thanks, happy swinging..

Try both on or purchase both and return the pair that doesn't fit.

Related question: I picked up a pair of Evo Gtx that look like they were used once. Fit's good except for a little bit of toe rub on the outside of one foot.

Will they wear in with use? Can I stretch the toebox width? Should I be yet another guy trying to sell a barely used pair of Evo's on MP? Sorry, Rob, they're size 44. Sizing seems to run larger than a pair of La Sportiva lightweight boots I have.

Rob,

Purchasing a good pair of ice boots can be very difficult depending on how difficult your feet are to fit.

I went through an epic trying to find a pair to fit as my feet are very low volume, flat, with narrow heels. I tried on 16 different models before I found one that fit. Which wasn't easy since the stores near me didn't stock a lot of ice boots.

Here's what I learned during the process.

1)Just like hiking boots your looking for that ah ha moment. The moment when you put on a pair of boots and they just feel right. Fit is King. You're going to be walking in these also so your feet have to feel good.
2)If you've got a buddy with boots of similar size, try all the ones he's got on. At the very least you can see how the foot beds fit your arch.
3)Even if your local store has a limited supply, try them on. Find out which models different stores around you have and go try them on. Or at least check them out.
4)Think about what kind of climbing you want to do to decide if you want leather or plastic. Ice? Mixed? Mountaineering? Most likely a warm leather will be what you go with. Their much easier to walk in than plastics.
5)Kick test every pair of boots you try on. Put the boots on with the sock and insole setup you plan on using. Usually that's a sock liner and heavy mountaineering sock. Lace them up and kick a wall. If your foot slides forward and toes hit the front of the boot those aren't the boot for you. Remember, you're going to be kicking bullet hard ice a lot and you don't want to loose a toe nail over something that's supposed to be fun. Do this with every boot you try on.
6)If you can't find the model you want at your local stores purchase them online. Buy the size you think you are, a half size above, and a half size below. This can be a big hit on your credit card and you will incur additional costs for return shipping so check out the return policies. I cringed at first thinking of the return costs but I'm glad I did it and found a boot that fit.
7)If your still having problems with fit use volume inserts and footbed to adjust.
8)Traveling to a good out of state mountain shop is an option. Do it as a combination vacation or go with buddies who are traveling to go climbing. Seeing and being able to try on boots in person is invaluable.
9)If your foot is easy to fit the Nepal Evo GTX is a classic boot and will serve you well for ice, gullies, mountaineering. The La Sportiva Baruntse is another awesome boot. Neither of which fit my foot. :(

Hope this helps.

Sorry to derail, but Eric, what boots fit your low volume narrow heel foot well?

Thanks!

Ray Pinpillage wrote:Try both on or purchase both and return the pair that doesn't fit.

Hey Erik,

I found the Kaland's and Mammut's to be the two lowest volume boots. The Mammut's were ok but the Kayland's used top notch materials, and was a very warm boot with a quilted insulated footbed. Also the materials Mammut used weren't quite as good.

Hope they fit.

The ice climbers dread... Funky feet. After years of not so great boot fit, I have finally found my "ah-ha' boot... Zamberlan... Great Italian company!

To the op's question. If your feet are floating around in a 46 Silver Bullet, I think you should drop all the way down to a 44-44.5 in the Nepal. Evo's are lasted pretty differently. I would start with a 44.5 first. What size street shoe do you wear? The Nepal will be a pretty close match overall.

FWIW, I wear the Nepal Evo in the same size as my La Sportiva street shoe, the Ultra Raptor trail runners. This is a comfortable fit, without toe bang, and with no sloppiness. For rock I wear the Katana Lace 1.5 sizes down for a tight but not unbearable fit.

Tougher to fit than a climbing shoe I believe. I get cold feet easily these days, so definitly use a half to full size larger than expected in ice boot. I want thick socks on, maybe with a thin liner too. Or room to add one of those chemical toe warmers inside without jamming my toes against the boot. Get them larger for sure, and again all boot makers sizes will vary, so any hints given above on brands and sizing will be important. Check inside of boot for any side ridges, bumps iin the design, or poor lining to boot, as they can rub up against the side of your foot and make it hideous, impossible to walk in for hours and distances needed.