Bolts Bolts Bolts

ClimbtechGear wrote:Thanks everyone. For arguments sake, I think is a bit unfair to compare our sleeve bolt to wedge bolts. Also, keep in mind this is going to be electro polished 304 stainless steel. Compared to stainless Fixe Triplex, Hilti HSLs, Power-Bolts and even stainless Confast this will come in much cheaper. Not a problem, getting them below or close to stainless wedgebolts is impossible, sorry. We're trying though! In many cases we might even be competitive with these manufacturers plated pricing also...which leads to my next point. An idea, would be to make a plated version. Price would drop dramatically and would hopefully reduce the use of wedge style bolts entirely. Again, the bolt is easily replaceable...why not? New routers might actually use them! Thoughts?

I would excited to see both!!!

Check it out, we updated the design...no more removal tool or ugly shoulder on the sleeve...works with just about any hanger with a 3/8" or 10mm bolt hole too!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AOWZ4Fma3Kk

So many stats, so much testing...its bomber. easily meets CE and UIAA specs.

Here it is in action, you might have to go full screen and switch to HD but it shows a pretty simple removal process working in a roof.

youtube.com/watch?v=bAGf8Hs…

Not sure how many of you guys have removed a Powers 5 peice in a roof but its a PITA by comparison.

Chris, thanks for taking the high road here.

That bolt you just posted just dropped in. Are they somewhat undersized to do this? Normally I tap bolts in with a hammer. I've only ever had them drop in like that on crappy rock and the rotten brick in my garage.

My record was 17 shitty hardware store bolts that I removed and pounded flush once the glue ins were set. RB's tend not to work because they like to make themselves permanent. This could have really helped me 5 years ago. If I ever live next to a sea cave again, I'll definitely use these as my directionals to set the glue ins from.

Locker I'll post more stats once we go to production. For now, i can tell you that they are similar to a powerbolt, sorry man.

No hammer needed during installation, this does make installation a bit trickier because the cone must but snugged up against the sleeve or the bolt will spin when you torque the bolt down.

This is how a route is bolted with RBs and Legacy bolts, awesome when the routes are overhung. Nicelegs i bet you had the older ones that didn't have a cleaning bushing yet?

https://vimeo.com/64697132

Sick day activities to keep the stoke.

Gratuitous bolt supply posting...

Great reading here for anyone looking to know more about the process and materials.

Now if only i could get more time off from the salt mines...

Chris Vinson wrote:Nicelegs i bet you had the older ones that didn't have a cleaning bushing yet?

I used 3/8" X 1 1/4" mild steel weak ass sleeve bolts. At a few cents each and to only be used for a few days, they worked. The cave was close to horizontal for nearly 40 feet and almost always steeper than 45. I actually used the bolts as anchor points for a series of rebelays rather than pure directionals for the drilling. There were a couple key spots where I could tie a beefy thread or a section of harder rock where I'd put a powers. It was still a bit terrifying calculating the swing potential if those bolts blew.

In all, only one blew and I didn't swing since my hook was in contact when it happened.

nicelegs wrote: I actually used the bolts as anchor points for a series of rebelays rather than pure directionals for the drilling.

Sweet. What you described is basically how we've been bolting roofs on lead, with 1/2" RBs instead of plated bolts. Patch the holes and it leaves virtually nothing other than some camo'd putty in the cliff.

Check out the rack.

bolting rack

Has anyone used the hilti or powers screw type bolts? I've heard they are frequently used in the stunt industry for high angle rigging.

Essentially they screw into rock like a drywall screw screws into wood. If removal is necessary, you just screw them right out. Nothing broken and nothing left in the hole.

I had good luck getting them into block at my house with a power drill but no luck getting them into hard quartzite on a cliff with a socket wrench. A lightweight mpact driver may Send them into hard stone. I placed one at the hilti store with one and it went in like butter. . . No wrench no hammer.

Any thoughts or experience with the hilti kh-ez or the powers wedge-bolt+

bus driver wrote:Has anyone used the hilti or powers screw type bolts? I've heard they are frequently used in the stunt industry for high angle rigging. Essentially they screw into rock like a drywall screw screws into wood. If removal is necessary, you just screw them right out. Nothing broken and nothing left in the hole. I had god luck getting them into block at my house with a power drill but no luck getting them into hard quartzite on a cliff with a socket wrench. An impact drivers solve this. I used one and set them very quickly at the hilti store. Any thoughts or experience with the hilti kh-ez or the powers wedge-bolt+

Are you trying to use them as a temporary/removable bolt?

Not necessarily only for temporary placements. With all the grief about using wedge anchors because they cannot be replaced using the same hole, these seem to solve that problem.

bus driver wrote:Not necessarily only for temporary placements. With all the grief about using wedge anchors because they cannot be replaced using the same hole, these seem to solve that problem.

Wedge bolts can be removed cleanly about 90% of the time with the right tools and technique. They still are a pretty crappy bolt compared to a 5-piece in regards to the surface area doing the holding.

support climbers! buy Jim Titt's stuff

Both...

Most of these have been places by now. I have been asked to add bolts to things because i have a tendency to space them out.