Scrubbing Bubbas
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 1.4 from 12 votes
Type: | Sport, 90 ft (27 m) |
FA: | Jim Shimberg 2001 |
Page Views: | 2,055 total · 12/month |
Shared By: | Lee Hansche on May 25, 2010 |
Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
I'm trying to picture the route clean and dry to find it more appealing. But that's not how I experienced it, and that's the typical state of it. But here's how it is.
Behind a big boulder leaning on a tree find a mossy, normally wet corner with two visible bolts on a slightly steep face. Climb the corner laying back crimping and stemming. The crux is pulling out of the corner on to a slab. It's pretty tough. I ended up with a finger lock and a handjam when pulling the crux bulge. After pulling the crux climb fun lichen covered slab till you hit the clean corners on the upper 1/3 of the climb this section is classic (these corners were what made me want to do the route). Fun and interesting climbing mostly on cracks leads to a final slab romp to the anchors.
Over all, I wouldn'tgo out of your way to do the first half but if you started on bb-b-butress and finished on the upper half of this it would be fantastic!
Behind a big boulder leaning on a tree find a mossy, normally wet corner with two visible bolts on a slightly steep face. Climb the corner laying back crimping and stemming. The crux is pulling out of the corner on to a slab. It's pretty tough. I ended up with a finger lock and a handjam when pulling the crux bulge. After pulling the crux climb fun lichen covered slab till you hit the clean corners on the upper 1/3 of the climb this section is classic (these corners were what made me want to do the route). Fun and interesting climbing mostly on cracks leads to a final slab romp to the anchors.
Over all, I wouldn'tgo out of your way to do the first half but if you started on bb-b-butress and finished on the upper half of this it would be fantastic!
9 Comments