Learning to climb: master/disciple

How did you learn to climb? Master and disciple style or by another way? That is, did someone more experienced than yourself "take you under their wing" and "teach you the ropes" or by some other way? Please share your experience if you're willing.

I read an article earlier (I dont recall which, truly) where someone said (I am summarizing): the rock gym is destroying the classic master/disciple way of learning to climb and new climbers arent prepared "properly".

Im curious what your thoughts are on the previous summary? Its seems extreme to me, but I am in my own little world here in PA. Im hopefully not stirring up trouble, I am truly curious "whats the hap's" outside of my little bubble?

I taught (taught myself = books, videos, internet research, experimentation at the local crag base, in trees, etc) to trad lead first then I was lucky to come by a much more experienced dude and he "took me under his wing", taught me a TON, dragged me up pitches I was terriefied to lead, and made sure to point out EVERY time he thought I was being a "pussy" and carried WAY (in his eyes) to much gear. He taught me that sometimes "less rack and more sack" is needed, sometimes, not all the time and he prepared me well for such situations (thank you!). To this day we're like brothers and I wouldnt have traded my "master and disciple" experience for anyone elses. The master and disciple relationship is not ideal or reasonable for many parts of life; but I dig it for climbing. It fits well (with me at least and my relationship with climbing and other climbers).

I appreciate your time.

Is master/disciple some sort of S&M term?

Thank you to all the "masters" out there: you fucking rock!

JCM I appreciate your input dude and am curious how you learned? I appreciate your indepth responses in these forums. Ive definitly learned some stuff from you. Thanks man.

I was schooled by a master of sorts for a route or 2, then it was me and a group of other noobs from there. Books and discussion from there. Honestly the books helped more than the master did as he was happy with a 1-piece anchor.

I climbed a few times in a gym that had a small wall in '06 as part of a workout. At the time I lived in MN and didn't realize that people actually climbed outside. In 2009 I was stationed at Ellsworth AFB near the black hills of SD. I started hiking around near Mt Rushmore and noticed bolts all over the place. When I saw someone climbing it all clicked and I realized crazy people actually climbed real rock. So my friend and I went to a local gear shop, asked a few basic questions on how to set up a TR, split the price on some webbing, rope, biners, and belay devices and thus it began. In hind sight we are really lucky to come out unscathed, but it was a good learning experience.

Since then I've hit the books, the internet, been guided once (asked a million questions and compared my techniques to theirs), and met and climbed with a lot of more seasoned climbers than myself. I feel I am very well rounded and am glad I learned outside in real time and not in the gym. I'm back in MN now and climb in the gym often. It's crazy how many people that I meet there that have never climbed outside. One things for sure, I take my belaying or spotting seriously. Climbing outside taught me risk management on many levels. I see a lot of people in the gym that may take the controlled environment for granted. Whatever way you learn, take it serious and stay safe.

I wanted to do alpine climbing, so rock climbing was something I needed to do towards that goal. I read books and watched videos before I bought enough gear to do some TR soloing. The only thing I had going for me was a lot of experience with rigging and fall protection. The very first day I went out I was fortunate to meet a guy who let me climb with him took me under his wing from there. Since then I've found that when I go out I often meet good folks, and I've gained some great partners to learn from.

I rarely go to the gym, not only because I prefer the crag but the nearest one is an hour away. There's a sweet underdeveloped bouldering spot just 15 minutes away. No-brainer.

We should hit Seneca soon. Cheers!

I think I learned through a disciple - disciple approach which I think is actually not too uncommon. Definitely not the most efficient way of learning.

Personally, I went through a disciple-disciple kind of deal. I had the basics down from a class I took in High school(belaying, rappelling, really basic stuff). Then I found someone who also wanted to climb. We started with a little sport, but after about 5 months of sport we went to trad. Started on low angle single pitch, then flatiron climbing, and with easy climbing it was a decent place to learn to place gear, along with learning how to place gear at the base of crags, the internet, books, some help from people more experienced, and common sense. Gradually we have worked our way up to being confident climbers, and will be doing our first few big walls this spring break. I have been really happy with how it all has gone, I was able to share the learning process with a friend, and we were able to push our abilities, and get psyched on the same routes together.

I was taught by old foulks with rusty, stiff, and mostly bootied gear. Outgrew them pretty quickly, and moved on to climbing with chicks.

After I scared myself silly soloing at Ralph Stover, I took a class at Chickie's Rock to learn a few basics -- like hip belays with gold-line. Went out the next week and bought a kernmantle rope and a stich plate! Then just top-roped at Stover and Pole Steeple for many months (and elsewhere). Read the only book I had access to (Bergsteigen by R.C. Aleith). Finally got up the nerve to go to the Gunks. By this time, we had acquired sit harnesses (replacing swami-belts with leg-loops tied out of one-inch webbing) and a small collection of nuts and hexes and a dozen knotted runners. Flaked out the rope at the base of Easy O and went for it. My first trad pitch was as a leader. That night we went to Rock and Snow and bought a pink and red tri-cam. By the end of the long weekend, we had ticked off about 15 routes from one end of the Trapps to the other -- from Black Fly to Casa Emilio. We somehow missed Betty, which I did for the first time this fall -- roughly 30 years later.

In any event, I guess I was my own master -- beyond that first class.

+1 for the disciple-disciple approach.

I don't think its necessarily effective, but that's what I had. I started out going with a bunch of my idiot friends to crags around SLC. We would hike to the top of the wall, lean out over the edge, and set up a TR. For "safety" the other guy would hang on to your harness while you set up the anchor. I got hurt in 3 months. We were headed to this new wall. Some dude said, "stay off the 10s. They're chossy." We had no idea what that meant so I jumped right on a 10, broke a hold, took a huge lead fall. We were lucky not to get hurt worse

When I got interested in trad, I really wanted a master but couldn't find one that was consistent. My first trad lead was supervised by an experienced older guy. My first multi pitch was with an experienced older guy. Other than that it was a lot of self taught insanity. Climbing 7s and placing tons of gear. I read Freedom of the Hills and Craig Lubbens book on anchors, and then practiced the stuff I was reading in my house.

My girlfriend had two masters that schooled her in trad. She's a really strong climber with a good assessment of her abilities. I don't regret the way I learned, but I definitely think the master disciple-model is preferable.

Cute chicks dont have issues finding "mentors"

Thats just how the world works

;)

"Cute chicks dont have issues finding "mentors"

Thats just how the world works"

So true! Just like cute girls don't get attacked on MP for asking questions. In the case of my gf, her closest mentor was another girl. She says she probably wouldn't have got so into it if she wasn't taught by another gal.

Yeah I think it has something to do with men being insensitive competitive a-holes. I don't remember. I wasn't really listening. ;)

I have seen the jerk/dumbass guy trying to teach the n00b girl so many times its not even funny anymore

my favorite is the 6'3" guy shouting/screaming beta at the 5'2" girl

MJMobes wrote:I have seen the jerk/dumbass guy trying to teach the n00b girl so many times its not even funny anymore my favorite is the 6'3" guy shouting/screaming beta at the 5'2" girl