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The Pirate
5.12d YDS 7c French 28 Ewbanks IX UIAA 28 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 3.9 from 40
votes
Routes in Buttress of Cracks - Left Side
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Arcy Farcy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Arcy Farcy Mantle T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Bacon Bits (aka Razor Games) T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Bluebeard T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Buccaneer, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Captain Hook T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Double Exposure T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b A1 |
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Double Exposure Direct T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Double Trouble T,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Frustration T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Ham Sandwich T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hernia - Direct Finish T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hernia, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Insomnia T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Overexposed Variation T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X |
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Pass Time T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Pieces of Eight T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Pirate, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Swashbuckler T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Sword of Damocles T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Walk the Plank T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Winter Solstice T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
| Type: | Trad, 170 ft (52 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Pat Callis & Larry Reynolds, June 1967, FFA: Tony Yaniro, 1978 |
| Page Views: | 24,412 total · 110/month |
| Shared By: | C Miller on Jan 27, 2006 |
| Admins: | C Miller, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
History
This striking thin crack test piece up a smooth 85 degree slab was originally done as an aid climb and just over a decade later freed, in 1978, by a 16 year old Tony Yaniro, wearing EB's no less, who went on to climb the Grand Illusion near Lake Tahoe the following year - the climb saw no repeats until sticky rubber-soled Fire's hit the U.S. market around 1982.
Description
P1) A combination of tip jams and face moves down low gain the security of a knob conveniently located next to the crack, above which the crack opens up to accept better locks and the difficulty eases to 5.11.
Near the top of the first pitch traverse slightly right to a bolted belay; thin fingers or a lack of feeling in your fingers is a plus on this pitch.
P2) Back left into the crack and up a 5.9 crack to the top. It's also possible to do this all in one pitch if so inclined. Belay atop Double Exposure and then descend the backside.
- The first pitch is often popular to practice clean aid (C2) and is often attempted on toprope by climbing The Buccaneer to access the anchors.
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