CRAMPON HELPS

So I'm looking to purchase my first pair of crampons this next week and am looking for some recommendations. I'd like something that works well for both vertical ice and more mountaineering, alpine style climbing. I realize that there is going to be a trade off here. What is best for vertical ice won't be ideal for low angle glacier travel and what not but would like to get as close to a happy medium as possible. Have any of you guys found something that works pretty good for both? As always, any input is greatly appreciated, thanks! =)

I've never had any issue with my Lynx crampons, regardless of terrain. Snow fields, glaciers, vertical ice, I've felt comfortable on all of it in them. Not a ton of experience, and they were my first pair, so maybe I don't know what I'm missing. They are heavy though.

Some people like a pair of horizontals for vertical ice too.

For an all around crampon, I suggest trying out something with a horizontal tooth. They walk better by not having as much fang out there to trip on and climb WI reasonably well.

I would recommend looking at the Black diamond saber-tooth. I have not tried anything harder than WI4 in them but they feel solid to me.

The petzl Vask is along the same lines but has a narrower heel for slim boots.

Either of those walk reasonably well and climb ice fine.

If you think that your may be getting on steeper than WI5 I would look at BD cyborgs, Petzl Lynix and grivel G14 crampon with a vertical front fang. However those do have long front points so be mindful of you pant legs.

Thanks for all the great input guys! I think the Lynx or the G14 will be the ticket. I should have a winter ascent up Grandeur or Olympus here in SLC under my belt in the next week or two and will post an update on which crampon was used and how it went. Thanks again! Cheers! =)

+1 to the Grivel G14's. I run dual point, but you can make them mono. Climbing on them for 2 yrs now, 2-3 days per week as soon as the ice comes in. Never had an issue. I see many climbers up here on them as well, and all with the same thoughts. Great Cramps, never an issue. Grivel isn't like BD and Petzl, they make stuff for winter. Not skis, not snowboards, not cams, Winter climbing gear. And they do it very well. Mine, my brother's and my wife's are all cramp-o-matic bindings. I've yet to have one fall off when climbing...

grivel.com/products/full_pr…

Ben Beckerich wrote:The Black Diamond Serac is the most underrated crampon out there... does ice well, does snow really well.

If you are looking for a more mountaineering crampon, the BD Sabertooth is one of the best. Is still have my original pair from many years ago. Still my goto for lots of climbs, they are just bombproof, climb ice just fine, and rule in snow/slush.

I also have a pair of petzl m-10s that are my mono's and I have a pair of Grivel g-14s setup dual... They are great crampons I must say. But, if I could only own one pair to do it all it would be the Sabertooth, hands down. If you start to lean more in the ice arena, vs the mountaineering then get another pair of more ice specific crampons. Every mountaineer should have a pair of horizontals in their gear pile IMO. But I'm a bit 'old skool'...

Grivel G12

Yep , just solo pretty much nailed it . Eventually You will end up w/ 2 pair of crampons .

I'm done with the mountaineering bit so everything I do now is vertical water ice , and all my crampons are vertical monos . I'm not poo pooing duals.if it makes ya feel good .

But after using monos for so long I feel like I have to kick the crap out of the ice to get a good foot placement when I try duals again. Unless the ice is warm n soft . My style works well for me , your milage / taste ect ect may vary .

For mountaineering I always liked flex able light weight 12 point horizontals the Cheaper ( cost wise) the better . Didn't matter to me who made them .