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Trouble with Toe Ons and Toe Ins (Footwork) - Any suggestions?

Original Post
----Matt---- · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 0

I have a bit of a roadblock with respect to footwork, which is that I have tremendous difficulty putting any weight on my great toes while climbing (even when distributing my weight evenly between both great toes, and using my arms WAY too much to support my weight). When I try, there's no pain involved, but there is a very strong feeling of discomfort; my body basically screaming "you must stop this at once", leaving me unable to really focus on anything else that's remotely difficult until I take my toe off and return the weight to the right or left ball of my foot.

I'm currently quite solid on 10+/11- climbs, but I realize that my inability to effectively put weight through my toes is seriously hampering my climbing. For one, using shallow or small pockets (those I'd have to put weight through my toes to use, instead of the right or left ball of my foot) as footholds is something I try to avoid, and when I absolutely need to do it something that I can't sustain for very long (leading to moves off of those features being done as quickly as possible, and often fairly sloppily). Similarly, turning while my feet are standing on very tiny features is quite difficult (read: impossible) as well since my toe isn't on.

No one I've talked to has ever had this problem, or even encountered anyone else with this problem.

I should note that my climbing shoes do fit my feet properly, so that's not the problem. Believe me, I wish it was, as that's a very easy fix. There's also nothing that's physically wrong with my toes or my feet. I'm 5'8" and 175 pounds, so it's not like I have a tremendous amount of extra weight or something, either.

Any suggestions on how to get past this? Toe strengthening exercises, perhaps? Anyone else have a similar issue?

The Rope Gun · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 5

I think you have gout or arthritis. I recommend accu puncture Eastern style.

Rob Gordon · · Hollywood, CA · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 115

Climbing is discomfort. Accept it. Your feet will adapt... Or they won't and you should just climb in approach shoes.

The only possible thing I can think that may be going wrong is that you might need to drop your heel. Not all the way, but to around 90 degrees then tighten the muscle on the top of your shin and the arch of your foot. That's the best way I can describe proper toeing.

And acupuncture has the same effectiveness as placebo, so you should probably skip that nonsense.

aren · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 0

My feet are very flat and my big toes or the surrounding parts of my feet often hurt after climbing. I'm a relatively new climber though (also in the .11 range), so it might just be the process of strengthening things that weren't used that much before. Maybe it's exacerbated by the flat feet, I don't know.

It started when I decided to use my toes more than the balls of my feet. So I definitely feel for you. I'd say hit a gym or work easy routes with big foot placements and concentrate on getting your toes just right. Use less than you need.

Practicing your toe placements when you have no other climbing worry will help develop the skill when you do need it. But you already know that. Good luck!!

Josh Villeneuve · · Granby, CT · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 1,814

Your shoes might fit you but that doesn't mean a different pair wouldn't help you out. Every shoe has a different camber and stiffness to it, a stiffer shoe might alleviate a little bit of that pressure from your big toes.

How many different shoes have you owned? Maybe they feel like they fit when you're walking around but press painfully on your big knuckles while seriously weighted.

Charles Kinbote · · Brooklyn, NY · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 5

Go to the gym and just stand on the small footholds, hanging from a jug. Try to get as much weight on your toes as possible. Then climb some super easy gym routes and use small footholds exclusively. It's a technique issue, IMO. Practice is the solution. Start in low stress situations and gradually increase the intensity and distractions.

Carlos Garcia · · Truckee, CA · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 7,047

My guess is you are missing range of motion in your lower limbs. I would do a combination of on- and off-wall mobility. Here are suggestions for off-wall mobility mobilitywod.com/?s=ankles. For on-wall mobility, I climb the steepest wall where I can put 100% weight on my feet and gradually decrease the size of foot holds and increase the steepest of the wall.

It is matter of doing a little bit every climbing session. In 6-8 weeks, there should be noticeable improvement.

Mitch Musci · · Estes Park, CO · Joined Apr 2002 · Points: 665

Some good suggestions in this thread. Another option would be trying to wear toe spreaders when you are hanging out at home. You mentioned you don't have foot problems, so I'm guessing you don't have bunions, but it might be worth a shot. Also, take a look at your street shoes. Do they fit too tight? Too narrow in the toe box? Alot of people could benefit from having a street shoe that allows their toes to fully splay in both width and length.

Are you a runner? That topic could open a whole can of worms!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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