Where should I climb over Spring Break?

I have my ideas - Seneca, RRG, Gunks - but I wanted to hear other ideas of where a good place to climb over spring break (mid-March) would be. I'm looking for a good place for 5.10 and under climbs, either sport or trad. Oh and it should be within 8 hours of central PA.

Go where the weather is nice.

For ratings you want, you have some choices in Muir Valley at the Red River Gorge. Just think it's going to be a mean cold winter yet, well into April down there in KY. Fly out to Vegas and do the Red Rocks climbing thing going on out there.

I've been to Muir Valley. I love it down there. I don't have the money to fly anywhere though.

A.wilk wrote:Go where the weather is nice.

This. Weather is too unpredictable in the east at that time of year to make solid plans. Decide at the last minute based on forecast.

When I lived in Vermont, I had several spring breaks (mid to late March) where we made the plan to just drive south until it was warm enough to climb. We would borrow enough guidebooks from everyone we knew that we could go wherever, and would pack both the rack and the sport draws, and just figure it out literally the day before we left. One year we drove 3 hours to New paltz, and when we got out it was in the high 40s and sunny...great climbing weather. We just stayed at the Gunks for the week, which was amazing since there was no one there mid-week in March. The next year we drove all the way to the Red.

I get that I should go where the weather is good, but where besides RRG, Gunks, and Seneca should I look to see if the weather is good there? Are there any good destinations I'm not aware of or that you guys think I should check out?

Keep TN in mind too. About 8 hours from central PA with the Obed and T-Wall being good warm places.

I love Seneca and will always recommend it. Plenty of moderates, but bring your man suit and your helmet.
I'm not sure what the distance is from PA, but you could check out a link up of Gunks and NH (Whitehorse, Cathedral, Rumney, Cannon). Also a great option if you have the resources to get up there.

Why no mention of the New?
THe low water areas ought to be accessible (Whipporwill, Long Point, etc), many of which get blasted with sun -- if the weather's decent.

Lots of moderate trad is everwhere in the gorge, and a fair amount of moderate sport lines exist, particularly in the more recently developed regions outside of the NRG proper.

Would also throw out Shortoff Mtn in Linville Gorge. Can be really nice that time of the year if the weather is good, free camping, and really fun climbing at 5.10 and under.

Thanks for the ideas. I might try to check out Linville if it's bad weather everywhere else. I'd never heard of it, so thanks Joe.

Spring break at the RRG is the craziest zoo imaginable. All classic 5.10's and under will have lines. It's certainly an experience, and if you're actually in college, might be fun. I was there in 2003 for my actual spring break, and it was pretty mellow. A lot has changed since, and nowadays I would avoid it like the plague.

While I love the climbing at RRG, I also agree that the moderates will likely be busy over Spring Break. I second the idea of New River Gorge. Lots of good, moderate sport stuff at Summersville Lake and Sanstonia and likely a tad less mobbed than Muir Valley, KY. As for moderate trad at NRG, there are lots of choices too but Endless may offer the highest quality.

S. Neoh wrote:While I love the climbing at RRG, I also agree that the moderates will likely be busy over Spring Break. I second the idea of New River Gorge. Lots of good, moderate sport stuff at Summersville Lake and Sanstonia and likely a tad less mobbed than Muir Valley, KY. As for moderate trad at NRG, there are lots of choices too but Endless may offer the highest quality.

5.10 trad you won't have too many lines. Spring break at Tattoo wall will suck. So will Summersville. Your best bet for quality 5.10a/b trad at the NRG is Orchard and Ritz at Fern Buttress and Thunder and Burning at Beauty Mtn. Endless does have a wide variety, but they're scattered, and there are quality concentrations in the low 5.10 trad grade at these areas (Fern & Beauty) in close proximity to one another. Once you get there, just tick 'em off one after another.

For sport, forget the typical noob spots. I took a small crowd to Tattoo over Memorial Day last year. We parked in the dark and the sun rose on the approach. We did all the 5.9 and under routes there one after another. By 9:00, there were lines of 10-15 people deep behind all the classic long moderates like Geisha, MFF, etc. It was ridiculous. I've seen the same thing at Summersville- OO, Narc., Satsifaction, etc. Not saying you won't be see ANY lines, but if you're willing to get up balls early, you can miss most of them. If not...

Go to the Other Place at the Meadow- IF the approach road isn't blocked.

But you should probably just go to the Red. The New sucks. No feet.

I'll agree with the new. Orange Oswald at summersville usually gets mobbed with people in the nicer weather, but for is full of moderates. There's also a good amount of trad moderates at beauty mountain (gorge proper)

don'tchuffonme wrote: The New sucks. No feet.

This is most of what I've heard about the New. All overhung. I'm thinkin' if it's good weather north, Gunks and NH. If it's good in my area, Seneca. If it's good south, Linville and NC.

Thanks for the input guys. Much appreciated.

Yes, I've forgotten about trad at Beauty. Right on and thanks.

I like the techie stuff at The New. Not all routes are overhung.
If anything, there are more overhung moderate routes at The Red.

Thomas Carson wrote: This is most of what I've heard about the New. All overhung.

Don't listen to that! The New has more vertical technical face climbs in your range than you could do in a month! I climb about the same level as what you're looking for and was just getting into leading when I lived in WV and I didn't have to worry about overhanging feet-free routes. I don't remember encountering any.

The New is has tons of climbs with well developed and easily hiked approaches. You'd also be within 30 minutes of Summersville which has the same as well as swimming near by.

That is not true about the New. The RRG is way more overhung, there is all sorts of climbing at the new. Go do four sheets to the wind, 5.9 trad and tell me it's all overhung techy no feet, and a ten minuet walk from the campground. The place is a playground and an endless amount of rock within 30 minuets. If you haven't been go. Also it is easy to spend a few days linking multi pitch at Seneca and few days cragging at the new, I the weather is good that would be your best bet, spend a rest day making the three hr drive from Seneca to the NRG you will not be disappointed.

Glad to hear from all The New fans out there. It is hard to be disappointed with The New. The only "bad" trip I ever had there (out of 10 so far) was the one during which it rained 4 out of the five days we were there.

I'm glad to hear that about the New. I'll have to check it out for sure. Thanks for correcting my misconceptions, guys.