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Routes in Hanging Chain
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Battery Brides T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Big Corner T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Dogz and drillz T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Excavation Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Fairhope S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Hanging Chain T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Krispy Kreme T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Lavender Dream T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Lessons Learned T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Little People T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Love Wig S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Not-so Great Arch, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Organized Confusion S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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OW 5.8R T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Plastic Fish T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Remote Control Cockroach T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sly Hooks (aka Sly Truths) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Sly Lie (aka Sly Corner) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Spiders & Snakes T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Spry Look S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Talk This Way T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Toys in the Attic T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Truth or Dare T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Unknown T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Walk This Way T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Weed-wack Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Zealot Shout - 1st pitch T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 105 ft (32 m) |
| FA: | Doug Reed, Tom Howard |
| Page Views: | 1,707 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Bruce Burgess on Dec 31, 2012 |
| Admins: | Ky Bishop, Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
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Description
A unique climb for the area. Not the greatest rock quality, but the moves and protection are really good. Great training for your next alpine adventure. Jam up left-most right facing dihedral on the right edge of the Hanging Chain Buttress. After about 60 feet at a triangle block, you encounter the 5.10c crux traverse that takes you into the corner system to your right. Be sure to save #3 and #2 camalots to protect the next testy section up and around a small roof (5.10b/c). Continue up and right (avoiding a hollow flake or two) to a large block with many slings. It's about 110' to the ground from there.
Protection
medium-large stoppers, tricams. Double set 0 TCU - #3 Camalot. Save #2, #3 Camalot and 0 and 1 TCUs for after the traverse. If a 3rd will be following the pitch, the 2nd should trail a rope and reclip gear. It would be difficult to reclip gear in the left crack if lowering from the top anchor.
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