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Thin Crack Shoe - Five Ten Stoneland vs Anasazi

reboot · · . · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 125
ChefMattThaner wrote: Sounds like you are not using that shoe to its full potential then... Why not get a shoe that fits properly and is flat to begin with???
I sent Moonlight Buttress in Katana Lace, is that full potential enough for you? On the other hand, TCs are meant for 5.14 slabs, sounds like you aren't using yours to full potential.

Off-finger & thinner cracks require a slightly different foot technique than your average thin hands crack; a little bit of downturn is actually an advantage, even in smooth sandstone. Also, a slight knuckle curl in those sizes actually makes your toe profile a bit pointier.
slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,103

agree with dave and reboot. it kind of takes a bit of a different mindset, but essentially with a bit of downturn you kind of 'hook' your toes into the crack, as opposed to going straight in (like you would with mythos/moccasyms).

Josh Jones · · Ranchos de Taos · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 130

I just got a pair of Stonelands lace. I sized up 1/2 size from my street shoe. They are comfortable enough for multipitch and climbed great right out of the box. As far as durability goes, I will just have see how they are in 6 months. They are on clearance at bent gate mountaineering now. Good luck!

GhaMby Eagan · · Heaven · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 385

What about the Anasazi Guide? fiveten.com/products/footwe…

thecornyman · · Oakland, CA · Joined May 2010 · Points: 140
reboot wrote: I sent Moonlight Buttress in Katana Lace, is that full potential enough for you? On the other hand, TCs are meant for 5.14 slabs,
Damn, burn. But in all seriousness are TCs for slab? They kill my heel on slab.
thecornyman · · Oakland, CA · Joined May 2010 · Points: 140

I wear TC pros that have been resoled at least once down to about .4s or sometimes Miuras that I size so my toes are flat. Anything smaller I like mocs and they do great with the joshua tree friction that is on top of quite a few climbs.

reboot · · . · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 125
thecornyman wrote: But in all seriousness are TCs for slab? They kill my heel on slab.
That was obviously said w/ a bit tongue in cheek... Tommy intended it as the one of pair shoes that can do all the hard pitches on an El Cap route. Doesn't mean it can't be better suited for you for a different purpose. Dave Macleod sent a 5.14 slab in a pair of downturned slippers & Alex Honnold climbed Belly Full of Bad Berries, an IC roof OW, in a pair of Testarossas, so...whatever works for you, really.
Mike · · Phoenix · Joined May 2006 · Points: 2,615

I like the stoneland, but not for thin cracks. The toe profile is just too wide IMHO.

For finger & off-finger cracks I prefer moccs (or even better super-moccs) with the toes flat b/c the narrow profile seems to get deeper in the crack for a bit more purchase. This is especially true for thin sandstone splitters. However for tiny cracks & super-hard cracks, especially in granite & basalt, I prefer a tight sport shoe b/c the footwork is mostly facey & often involves very little jamming with the toes/rand.

YMMV.

Dave Alie · · Golden, CO · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 75
reboot wrote: Dave Macleod sent a 5.14 slab in a pair of downturned slippers & Alex Honnold climbed Belly Full of Bad Berries, an IC roof OW, in a pair of Testarossas, so...whatever works for you, really.
There's a great point in here that should be kept in mind whenever you find yourself in a conversation such as this one about the merits of one shoe (or softshell, or cam, etc.) vs. another: it's rarely the case that the shoe is truly preventing you from achieving a certain grade or breaking through a plateau.

Yes, it is possible for this idea to be taken too far on occasion (not the case here)- the fact that someone you met once climbed a hard 5.14 face route in the mythos doesn't make them good at edging (relative to other shoes which are). All it means is that those people are tremendously talented and fit and are able to overcome the limitation of their gear.

That said, reboot's point is a critical one that gets lost in countless MP gear comparison threads: all of these conversations need to take place with the mutual understanding that all manner of shoes will get you up most routes provided you are a strong enough climber. So while these conversations (stonelands/anasazi, miura/vapor, etc.) are interesting and worthwhile, it's really not worth making yourself crazy about and certainly not worth letting yourself slip into the "shit, if only I had the *insert expensive new shoe here*" mind-set.

Use the shoes that are the most fun to wear, whichever they are for you. It'll help you stay psyched and encourage you to get more pitches in, which is ultimately what makes you climb harder.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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