N Conway ice guidebooks/internet resources/best routes

I'm going to do a quick trip to the N Conway area this week. What's the best stuff in the WI4-5, M3-5 range? I have never climbed on, let alone visited, that coast. Thanks!

Assuming you're talking about North Conway. The definitive (only really) guidebook for ice in New England is by Rick Wilcox, owner of IME (the local climbing shop) /local legend. On your way into town I'd highly recommend stopping by and reading over a copy. Also the guys there are always up for giving beta.

ime-usa.com/ime/index.html

Basically, you'll need to hit up Frankenstein: mountainproject.com/v/frank…

Once you get a feel for the place I'd really recommend Dracula (awesome WI4):

mountainproject.com/v/dracu…

And Dropline (even more awesome WI5):

mountainproject.com/v/dropl…

Check neclimbs.com and neice.com for conditions.

Have fun,

- Joe

BTW here is a link to the guidebook: amazon.com/Ice-Climbers-Gui…

Not sure you can get it (at a reasonable price) anywhere but IME these days.

Oh man, those Amazon prices are ridiculous. Would sell my copy for $60 but I'd still feel bad about gouging someone even thought they got a deal.

For the OP: Note sure what your partner availability/solo interest is, but Huntington Ravine might be worth checking out. It's a hallowed and storied landscape, the classic routes range from WI 1-3. Nothing cutting edge by today's standards but they are impressive for pre-WWII era stuff and the location is just spectacular.

Joe and Lucander, thanks for the advice! Everyone says that Huntington Ravine is cool, so your heads up about the place pushed me over the edge and now I'm going there Friday instead of cragging :-). Psyched! It's great to know where to get the guidebook too--I'll pick it up for the rest of the weekend. The Amazon prices are stupid.

Cragging is probably not a good idea Friday as MWV Ice Fest is this weekend.

Don't forget the Black Dike, Hamik.

Not trying to be dramatic, but Mt Washington dcan be way dangerous with weather and avvies...

Frank's is always crowded....Some of the more mixed things on Cathedral may have good conditions..avoid the north end

Yea but Kirby is right, everything in the North Conway area will be slammed will ice fest folks.

Last year I went to the ice fest but climbed in the flume/ on cannon day of to avoid the festival people, that could be a possibility if you're willing to travel a bit afield from north conway.

Black Dike would be awesome... some people I met in Joshua Tree were gushing about how great it is. Anyone know if it's in? Should I just ask at the shop? The avy forecast is apparently moderate but almost low, so I think I'll beacon up and take a rope to Mount Washington. So psyched!!! It's been friggin' eighty degrees here in Los Angeles since the winter solstice.

Black Dike is right up your alley considering the experience level you posted. That doesn't mean there won't be a line unless you get there first.

Just a word of caution, don't consider Black Dike only on grade. It can be really thin....and unless conditions are really fat, you will be run out dozens of feet at a time. Getting any kind of semi-reliable pro in certain sections is relatively impossible. LOTS of fragmented rock. Great route, but it can get stout pretty quick.

Mike Willig wrote:Just a word of caution, don't consider Black Dike only on grade. It can be really thin....and unless conditions are really fat, you will be run out dozens of feet at a time. Getting any kind of semi-reliable pro in certain sections is relatively impossible. LOTS of fragmented rock. Great route, but it can get stout pretty quick.

It was thin the year I did it,.... I was spooked...everything you touched would fracture and the rock would move if you tried to place any rock gear!

Anyone know how in Revelation is? That thing looks psycho awesome.

Check NEclimbs, someone there will know for sure.

Joe C wrote:BTW here is a link to the guidebook: amazon.com/Ice-Climbers-Gui… Not sure you can get it (at a reasonable price) anywhere but IME these days.

By all means check neclimbs..up to date stuff

Also bayard Russell's site-cathedralstyle..for some harder things just done

When you pick up your copy of Rick's ice guide at IME, ask him what conditions are like. The folks at IME are wonderfully helpful and can give you an update on how the ice is currently looking before you head out. I was at the Mount Washington Valley Ice Fest this weekend and Rick was saying the ice is really good this year. I'm still new to ice climbing, so only have one prior season to compare this year's ice to, but we had plenty of good fat climbing to keep us happy this weekend.