Running out of runouts

With all the talk about runouts going on in the forum, somebody needs to hear the other side.

Simply put: we don't have enough runout climbs! I say we start strategically chopping bolts to bring back the heyday of our bold-climbing forefathers. If you can't climb a route onsight and free-solo, Jim Erickson style, you shouldn't be climbing it.

WHO'S WITH ME!?

(just messing around, I don't actually feel strongly either way...)

Sick, let's RUNOUT and SOLO the 3rd Flatiron before
the Government shuts our RUNOUT down!

Abram Herman wrote:With all the talk about runouts going on in the forum, somebody needs to hear the other side. Simply put: we don't have enough runout climbs! I say we start strategically chopping bolts to bring back the heyday of our bold-climbing forefathers. If you can't climb a route onsight and free-solo, Jim Erickson style, you shouldn't be climbing it. WHO'S WITH ME!? (just messing around, I don't actually feel strongly either way...)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JN99jshaQbY

Good one Ben..

If you crave runouts, NH and NC are waiting for you....then you can head to Tuolomne

I enjoy a good runout route every now and then. I like the mental struggle of them.

Have you climbed much in NC? I'll show you runout.

Abram Herman wrote:With all the talk about runouts going on in the forum, somebody needs to hear the other side. Simply put: we don't have enough runout climbs! I say we start strategically chopping bolts to bring back the heyday of our bold-climbing forefathers.

The problem with this idea is that it would be unethical to alter the route from the vision of the FA party by removing the bolts.

On the other hand, if you started cementing over cracks and pro placements on trad routes, so that they were newly runout, you'd be on the moral high ground.

Head down to the South Platte. . .you can find some
runouts there, or up on MacGregor slab up in RMNP. . .

When in doubt, run it out.

since we are stirring up shit on a Friday night, I will offer up this masterpiece…

mountainproject.com/v/-/108…

I run out all climbs due to my entire rack being a #10 stopper, a #2 BD cam and a pink tri cam. I can usually use each of them every climb but sometimes it takes a long time.

no one is forced to place gear or clip bolts. you can make it just as exciting as you want.

youtube.com/watch?v=qIuUL91…

Steve Bond wrote:I run out all climbs due to my entire rack being a #10 stopper, a #2 BD cam and a pink tri cam. I can usually use each of them every climb but sometimes it takes a long time.

Add another pink Tricam or two and a couple of .75 BD C4s, and you'll be set for North Carolina. Well, you might want a quickdraw or two for Stone Mountain. :-)

Wow I would be more embarrassed to be in that video then that guy who shit his pants in front of a camera crew.

Come to Oklahoma if you don't have enough run out or RX routes.

I heard that runout means just shitting your pants. 'swhatiheard.

the three best pieces ever Steve. nice one

like pat said, skip them. I am far from bold but once and a while it feels good to run it out. small print. when its easy.

Mark E Dixon wrote: The problem with this idea is that it would be unethical to alter the route from the vision of the FA party by removing the bolts. On the other hand, if you started cementing over cracks and pro placements on trad routes, so that they were newly runout, you'd be on the moral high ground.

Unethical? My ethic is to respect people who earn it. If the FA party needed bolts because they weren't good enough, and then someone goes behind them and does it in a pure style, guess who my ethic respects?

If the FA party needed to chip a few holds to simplify the crux, would that be cool? Where is the line? Either you respect the purity of nature and climbing it or you don't.

Why should the guy who had the first vision get to be the only vision? What if somoene has a better vision with more purity and less impact? Having the first vision shouldn't matter, having the best vision should!

aren wrote: Unethical? My ethic is to respect people who earn it. If the FA party needed bolts because they weren't good enough, and then someone goes behind them and does it in a pure style, guess who my ethic respects? If the FA party needed to chip a few holds to simplify the crux, would that be cool? Where is the line? Either you respect the purity of nature and climbing it or you don't. Why should the guy who had the first vision get to be the only vision? What if somoene has a better vision with more purity and less impact? Having the first vision shouldn't matter, having the best vision should!

Heretic!

How dare you question an artist?

I'll bet you hate America and want the terrorists to win.