Adding Bolts between runouts

If you can't do the route as it is don't aspire to make it "safer" aspire to be a better climber. I'm one for old school ethics on this debate.
One of my first leads was Sliding Board on Whitehorse in NH. Only a 5.7. Slab. The 3rd pitch is a 5.5 runout with 1 bolt in the entire 100ft pitch. Scared the piss out of me cause I couldn't find it. at the time it was the scariest 5.5 ever! That was back in '92. Never thought about adding more bolts. I just wanted to get better.

don'tchuffonme wrote:Boy am I sorry I brought that example up. No one really gives a shit about that speck, and I'm surprised that anyone ever did.

its all choss, that R&I article last winter on CT was all bullshit

Mannamedstan wrote:When FA party is dead, you still don't have the rights to retro bolt. Where are you thinking to re bolt in Tahoma? Hopefully not mayhem. Mayhem is great as is and a friend has kept up the mussy hooks and bolts there how they should be.

I was not necessarily thinking to re-bolt anything, the thought just occurred to me to hear different thoughts on the matter. Mayhem is cool. Just went there for the first time this weekend.

G-ma and G-pa Peabody Boulders are pretty tall. Evilution could use a bolt or four, who wants to help?

Wow, this thread blew up. Check the vid on BY route below. This guy's experience with this classic runout would not have happend if it was rebolted.

Sure, I'd like to wail away on this route with a bolt every 5 feet, but not at the expense of robbing the guy in the video of Bachar's classic in all its pucker producing glory.

climbing.com/video/the-bach…

Jared Moore wrote: I was not necessarily thinking to re-bolt anything, the thought just occurred to me to hear different thoughts on the matter. Mayhem is cool. Just went there for the first time this weekend.

I remember my 1st beer too buddy, thanks for kickin off this sh!tstorm.

Jonathan Dull wrote:Seriously…Here goes again.

Kids these days.

Sack up and lead!

Come on, meme guy. You can do so much better than that. By this time of night you should be hopped up on cough syrup and NC home grown, and posting high quality material. What's going on? Are you ok?

This post violated Rule #1. It has been removed by Mountain Project.

slab climbing NC in this temp must of been pretty good today for the lucky folks out there not slaving for the man. sunny and 28 tomorrow here, I'll be out getting a tan on some slabs, f work

Jared...find another climb to do. there are millions of other climbs at whatever level it is that you are looking for. develop your own shit if you don't like the existing shit....

Okay, I think I get it. I appreciate the input and some of the funny responses. Think I'll start grid bolting now...just joking, obviously. Climbing routes like I have mentioned is definitely something I want to do. I think there is a lot to be gained from sending scarier climbs. I come from climbing at the Red, where everything is well-bolted (some might say over-bolted), so the climbing out here is taking some getting used to.

Jon Nelson wrote: In the rainy NW, runout routes are generally lost to history because almost nobody does them, which generally means that the rock gets reclaimed by moss.

My own personal ethics dictate that if a route is lost to moss its up for grabs.

If some old tradibani wants to hold on to a mossy old route that nobody ever does for historical/egotistical reasons I welcome them to do so, write a guidebook so its a part of recorded history.

• Yawn*

NC Rock Climber wrote:Come on, meme guy. You can do so much better than that. By this time of night you should be hopped up on cough syrup and NC home grown, and posting high quality material. What's going on? Are you ok?

I'm honestly just pissed off I can't post anything without it getting deleted...

Edit: my brother dropped by for a surprise visit after had had killed a few tall boys and he don't smoke but he took a bong rip so I've been baby sitting his pussy ass all day. I'm fairly fucked up on some homebrew and homegrown.

To the OP: As far as bolts go. If you can't lead it without putting more bolts on it, you're a big old female dog.

I bought a bag of weed off Ken once out at Chatfield, was pretty good shit if remember correctly.

if the individual overrides the needs and desires of the community, well aint jus like Merika

Allen Sanderson wrote:The ethics are talk to the FA party and the local community before modifying a route otherwise the ethic is to leave it alone and suck it up.

I think there is a caveat to that statement. If access is an issue in the area, an injury could jeopardize access and the route is climbed frequently, I would say it is appropriate to tame the runout regardless of what the FA wants. I have seen crags closed as a result of too many injuries, and if adding a bolt to a climb would have prevented or prolonged the closure, then add away. Access trumps everything.

Grow a sack and keep climbing