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Building my rack for El Cap

Josh Allred · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 161
William Turner wrote:This summer me and a buddy are going to climb el cap. Were going to start buying trad gear soon I already have a double set Camp USA tri-cams 0.25-2, 1.5 sets of Black Diamond hexes, 1.5 sets of Black Diamond wire nuts pro set, Metolius curve nuts 1-10, Wild Country Tech Friends cams 1-5,Metolius TCU 0-4, Metolius Power Cam 3-7 doubles in 3 and 4, Rock Empire cams 4-6. So I am wondering what else should I add to my rack to climb the Nose on El Cap. I am not too good at trad climbing but I have been practicing . So I want to get a minimal rack but since I am not the best at trad I think I should have a rack with a little more active protection. Any feedback is greatly appreciated.
Leading 10a in Indiana is not going to be like leading 10a in Yosemite. Really there is no reason to jump on El Cap just to say "I climbed El Cap." Climb something on Leaning Tower or one of the "smaller" walls. It will still be an amazing experience. Go to Zion and learn on some of "smaller" walls. Respect the wall for what it is. You and your partner need to have the skills dialed in before undertaking such a big objective. It is pretty ambitious to say This summer me and a buddy are going to climb el cap. Quite a jump from multipitch trad. You have to expect there is going to be push back.
Josh Allred · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 161
Ryan N wrote:Be safe and have fun. It's not always about the climb sometimes the journey is just as memorable.
+1

Could not of said it better.
Kip Kasper · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 200

being way up on the captain and knowing exactly what you're doing and what you need to do is one of the best parts of wall climbing. Getting up there and realizing that you're way over your head would suck, even if you didn't bail. Climbing is supposed to be fun. With 8 weeks in the ditch you can probably make it up the nose, but climbing stuff like leaning tower (kick ass route with a ultra plush ledge at the halfway point) and serenity-sons (one of the most fun routes of all time) before getting on the captain will pay off in a big way. You will also really enjoy doing those routes.

The iceman speaks the truth.

See ya in the ditch!

Nate Manson · · San Diego, CA · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 135
William Turner wrote: You're very helpful thanks
Can I have your shiny new offsets when you peel off the second pitch?
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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