Ask a noob!

Climber26 wrote:Ok? What pulleys are you guys using for top roping. Took a quick look at Petzl's site and the only one worth carrying only has a 8KN rating. and please don't give me the "you can't generate that much force on a top rope" argument I know it would be hard to do but top rope falls can generate quite a bit of force. rockandice.com/lates-news/t… If you are doing it to save carabiners from wear that is silly to me. You can spend the same on two carabiners that you would spend on one pulley. *** Also, I am not trying to get into a "pissing match" here I am just trying to gather information. ***

pulleys work really well in a 3 to 1 for getting *really* heavy girls up climbs in order to make them feel good, not that I would know

Derek Peppers and MJMobes: Thank you kindly. I will keep your words in mind. I will be driving up the Pacific Coast from Southern California to Vancouver Island and possibly to Squamish, September through November, 2014. I need climbing partners along the way. I plan on stopping in Portland for a while. I've been told I need to hit Smith Rock. What do you think?

Here's a great new noob topic, but I fits here: I saw a guy who had been climbing for less than one year FREE-SOLOING "Fote Hog", a (J-Tree) 5.6 that is 120 feet. Me and 3 others had just finished climbing it (with ropes) and were walking to the base to pick up our packs. All of us were skeptical when we saw the way the guy was climbing up into dead ends and then down climbing in a panic. It seemed like he had never attempted the climb before. He wasn't with a group of climbers. He was making his family watch him do this. They were clearly nervous. We had to pry a little to get them to admit that he'd been climbing for less than one year. We did this quietly so as not to psyche him out. We then left quickly. I'm sure people will have a lot to say about this, but the only problem I have is that he had his family watching him. I myself will never ever climb over 25 feet without a rope. But I am very much a libertarian when it comes to other people free soloing. Just don't hurt anyone else. So my question for fellow noobs is: What is your take on solo climbing?

I've got a buddy who's a bigger noob than I am and he seems to think soloing is awesome (for the glory!). I'm pretty sure that he's gonna die cuz he sucks big time and has no thoughts of self preservation.

How do you deal with a "crying n00b"?

Matthew McMillan wrote: I saw a guy who had been climbing for less than one year FREE-SOLOING "Fote Hog", a (J-Tree) 5.6 that is 120 feet. Me and 3 others had just finished climbing it (with ropes) and were walking to the base to pick up our packs. All of us were skeptical when we saw the way the guy was climbing up into dead ends and then down climbing in a panic. It seemed like he had never attempted the climb before. He wasn't with a group of climbers. He was making his family watch him do this. They were clearly nervous. We had to pry a little to get them to admit that he'd been climbing for less than one year.

Was this around New Year's Day? I think I was on Ball Bearing to the left and saw the same guy. Seemed like he had no idea where the route went and had a small entourage to photograph him. Had the feeling at the time he was putting on a show :/

If you are so unsure, which you are- it's obvious by your tentative behavior, then why not just ask someone? Fragile n00blet egos.

Matthew McMillan wrote:Derek Peppers and MJMobes: I saw a guy who had been climbing for less than one year FREE-SOLOING "Foote Hog", a (J-Tree) 5.6 that is 120 feet. Me and 3 others had just finished climbing it (with ropes) and were walking to the base to pick up our packs. All of us were skeptical when we saw the way the guy was climbing up into dead ends and then down climbing in a panic. It seemed like he had never attempted the climb before. He wasn't with a group of climbers. He was making his family watch him do this. They were clearly nervous. We had to pry a little to get them to admit that he'd been climbing for less than one year. We did this quietly so as not to psyche him out. We then left quickly. I'm sure people will have a lot to say about this, but the only problem I have is that he had his family watching him. I myself will never ever climb over 25 feet without a rope. But I am very much a libertarian when it comes to other people free soloing. Just don't hurt anyone else. So my question for fellow noobs is: What is your take on solo climbing?

WTF! The fact that he was free soloing something as a noob is ridiculous, if he didn't know the route, had to down climb, and was freaking out there is no justification as to why he should have been up there. What makes this whole thing even worse is that he had his family there so they could take photos and see "HOW EXTREME" he can be. Wow dude, super poser. Don't get me wrong, I love to post a good photo or two of me climbing but I would never invite my family out so they could take pictures of me putting my life at risk. I'm assuming he just got done watching the 60 minutes special on Alex Horrnold, his family was amazed and he said, "that's nothing, I can do that".

Dear n00bbey,
I've been looking to buy my first rope for climbing and am floored by the prices.
I noticed they sell ropes made of nylon in some of the same pretty colors at my local hardware store for LOTS cheaper.
If I buy one of these ropes I'd imagine I could spend the savings on a wad of those clippy things and those expandy things that you attach the clippy things to and such.
What is your take on this matter...
I said TAKE!!

don'tchuffonme wrote:...n00blet

nOOblet. I like that. Ha ha ha. Are their offspring nOOblings?

I dont want to start a fight here but I'm pretty sure its n00b NOT nOOb

What are the best socks to wear while climbing, wool, cotton, synthetic or smartwool?

Ha! I knew the pulley would be a hit! But beware, I never top rope with one, I only solo with a pulley! (Where is a picture of that guy.. I don't solo often but when I do it's with a pulley!)

Now hook me up with a Stich plate! Me hungry after soloing!

PS: Cotton socks all the way! Have a clean pair for everyday spent on the Nose - ElCap

The biggest problem I have with the soloist is having his family watching. No matter how much experience you have I'd say that's a bit much. No matter how solid you are most non-climbers will think yer gunna die (and sounds like he wasn't all that solid).

Other than that though, if someone feels like onsight soloing at their limit (be that 5.6 or 5.12) that's their choice. Maybe stupid to some but then isn't *most* climbing "dumb" to some people? Live and let live. Unless you're endangering others, it's your life IMO.

Back to the topic -- why do you always have weird specialty pieces (hexes, double tricams, etc) and/or too much gear in general (brand new shiny doubles from #00 TCU to #3 BD) when you're climbing a 60 foot 5.7? I understand sewing it up when you're new and/or at your limit but sometimes it's like...seriously?

Stich wrote: nOOblet. I like that. Ha ha ha. Are their offspring nOOblings?

Yes, unless they are climbing 5.7 trad with enough gear to do 10 pitches of aid like this:

Ryan Watts wrote:why do you always have weird specialty pieces (hexes, double tricams, etc) and/or too much gear in general (brand new shiny doubles from #00 TCU to #3 BD) when you're climbing a 60 foot 5.7?

In this case, the offspring would be chufflings.

MJMobes wrote: pulleys work really well in a 3 to 1 for getting *really* heavy girls up climbs in order to make them feel good, not that I would know

As long as the pay off is there after you help get the 'heavy girl up the climb, I guess it's worth it. As for pullys, just use a good sized 6 inch diameter rescue pulley(they only run a couple hundred bucks). The large diameter will make the turning radius of the rope very easy to pull and assist, without the 3 pully overkill set up. (think how that 'heavy might feel if she saw a whole rescue 3 pully set up for just her!). Pullys are the future of easy toproping !..as long as you are belaying with that trusty Sticht plate too!

Stich wrote: nOOblet. I like that. Ha ha ha. Are their offspring nOOblings?

No, a n00blet' is a female n00b under the age of 13. They are not legally 'n00bs yet, nor legal climbing partners for most males without some serious parental supervision. And you can't post pics of 'n00blets to the internet either, cuz,,you know,,,you could get pinched for something criminal. That's why there are so few pics of under 13's on MP site. Really, just check with the site lawyers on that.

I got a few questions:

- Why do you feel that you need to rack/sort gear at least 3 times for a a climb? The night before, the morning of at the camp and lastly in the parking lot of the crag?

- Why do you hang your rack on your rear-view mirror at the camp, especially at a sport climbing area?

- What amount of stickers you think is respectable enough for your vehicle and the helmet?

- Does sitting in a restaurant in Ouray with the hardware (screws etc.) on your harness hurt? Or doesn't walking around town with an ATC dangling off the belay loop hurt your balls?

Answers for Doligo: Convenience. Looks cool! >50, and yes it does hurt.

doligo wrote:Does sitting in a restaurant in Ouray with the hardware (screws etc.) on your harness hurt? Or doesn't walking around town with an ATC dangling off the belay loop hurt your balls?

Have you actually seen that?

In defense of any climber, be it n00b or non-newbie,,,I've often headed home from the crag in my car, maybe with ATC still in place, harness on (cuz it's so comfortable) and after 4 hours of driving I make that much needed road side rest area stop for a leak,,and ,,,,@#$#@$,,that harness is still on and blocking my quickly needed pants-drop for emergency situation. We all end up wearing a belay device on our loop at sometime, so let's not pin that only on the nOOOOOObs of the climbing world.

Stich wrote: Have you actually seen that?

Harnesses on Main Street are pretty common, and I've seen a dude in his harness having lunch at the Brewery once. If they're not wearing climbing paraphernalia, they usually try to make it clear that they are ice climbers by announcing it to "clueless" locals.