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Sunset (submitted as Mole Rat Crack)
5.6 YDS 4c French 14 Ewbanks V UIAA 12 ZA S 4b British
Avg: 2.6 from 10
votes
Routes in South Face of Arthur's Rock
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Big, Bad Book T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Blackish Blobs S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Corridor Project S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Doom Corner T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Edge Of Time S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Excellent Adventure S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Front Gate T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Goldeneye S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Great Corner, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Great Variant, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Intestinal Fortitude S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Kiddy Pool S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Mono Matt T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Owl Roof S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Right of Passage T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rocksie Rocks S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Sunday Morning Coming Down T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sunrise T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Sunset (submitted as Mole Rat Crack) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Water Fountain TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 140 ft (42 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 3,505 total · 28/month |
| Shared By: | Catie-Cat on Jan 25, 2014 · Updates |
| Admins: | James Schroeder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Raptor Closures
Details
2022: South Face closures from May 15 - July 31.
Per Charlie Martz: raptor closures (peregrine falcons) are in effect in 2021: the South Face climbing area is impacted by these closures starting March 15th from The Great Corner (west side of S. Face) across the South Face to Sunrise. . . and includes the top of the rock (above the climbs, not the hike to the "summit") and the descent trail.
Per Citsalp: raptor closures (peregrine falcons) are in effect in 2019: the South Face climbing area is impacted by these closures May 15 - July 31 from Blackish Blobs (west side of S. Face) across the South Face to Sunday Morning. . . and these include the top of the rock (above the climbs, not the hike to the "summit") and the descent trail. Other climbing areas should remain open.
Per Charlie Martz: raptor closures (peregrine falcons) are in effect in 2021: the South Face climbing area is impacted by these closures starting March 15th from The Great Corner (west side of S. Face) across the South Face to Sunrise. . . and includes the top of the rock (above the climbs, not the hike to the "summit") and the descent trail.
Per Citsalp: raptor closures (peregrine falcons) are in effect in 2019: the South Face climbing area is impacted by these closures May 15 - July 31 from Blackish Blobs (west side of S. Face) across the South Face to Sunday Morning. . . and these include the top of the rock (above the climbs, not the hike to the "summit") and the descent trail. Other climbing areas should remain open.
Access Issue: 2017 Raptor Closures
Details
Per garrett K: The South face of Arthur's Rock is currently CLOSED for raptor nesting as of 4/7/17.
Per Rodney Ley 1: as of 21 May 2016, there is a Prairie Falcon (possibly Peregrine) nest with eggs at the top of this route (Sunday Morning Coming Down) area. The Lory State Park staff have placed a "Trail Closed" sign near the approach, but they don't mention it is for raptor protection.
Please avoid until mid-summer, perhaps the park staff will remove the sign when the birds have moved on.
Per Rodney Ley 1: as of 21 May 2016, there is a Prairie Falcon (possibly Peregrine) nest with eggs at the top of this route (Sunday Morning Coming Down) area. The Lory State Park staff have placed a "Trail Closed" sign near the approach, but they don't mention it is for raptor protection.
Please avoid until mid-summer, perhaps the park staff will remove the sign when the birds have moved on.
Description
Pitch 1 (5.5): start between "Rights of Passage" and "Sunday Morning Coming Down". Scramble up to a wide, shallow chimney containing a face. After exiting the chimney, belay on ledge.
Pitch 2 (5.6): slightly to the right, continue up a hand crack until you reach another large ledge below the headwall. Go 30 feet left to the chain anchors, and finish on your choice of bolted routes.
Pitch 2 (5.6): slightly to the right, continue up a hand crack until you reach another large ledge below the headwall. Go 30 feet left to the chain anchors, and finish on your choice of bolted routes.
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