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Utah Ice Conditions, 2013 - 2014

Garret Nuzzo Jones · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 1,436
cdec wrote:The gate is locked down low and adds 20 to the walk. Haven't been down there is a few years so if this is the new norm please forgive me.
The USFS has been closing it down low the past few years. Seems like whenever the snow level gets high enough to cover the road up.
Eli Harry · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 75
Millers Thriller

Middle of post nasal drip

Climbed millers thriller then rapped down post nasal drip and climbed it as well. Really nice ice on PND!!
chadnuesmeyer Nuesmeyer · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 150

Went and did Back Off on Saturday (1/25). We got to the base of the climb at approximately 8am. The ice was very brittle, every swing dinner plated. By the second pitch the ice was drippy and soft, making it easy to look like a hero.

Can't upload pictures from the mobile version of the site. Here is a link: plus.google.com/11684124507…

#TeamEasy #EddieBauer #FirstAscent

  • **Before everybody freaks out, this route is highly prone to avalanches. Take caution and know what you are getting into.
Second pitch lead

Top of the second
G Carpenter · · SLC, UT · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 210

My two partners and I also climbed Squash Head & Backoff Sat 1/25.
The start of pitch one of Squash Head was a little wet on the left side and chandeliery on the right. Pitch two slightly wet up the gully to the belay.

Squash Head - Starting 2nd pitch

A look down at Tim Coates from the top P2

After Squash Head dropped over to Backoff. Great ice.

Tim Coates on the1st pitch of Backoff

2nd pitch

2nd pitch

G Carpenter · · SLC, UT · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 210
Luke Lydiard · · Mammoth Lakes, CA · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 1,069

Anybody know if the GWI BBQ is going to happen this Sunday?

Sam Cannon · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined May 2012 · Points: 924

Yes, it is. Check the forums, it's a thread or two below this one.

Warbonnet · · Utah, India and Cambodia · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 630

The Bridal Veil Ice Festival is also this weekend......they've had challenges in pulling this off. I'm hoping they get a lot of support and good attendance. The BBQ can wait.....(can't it?)

Warbonnet · · Utah, India and Cambodia · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 630

Anyone tried the left side of Candlestick this year? Drippy?

cdec · · SLC, UT · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 654

Climbed Candlestick on 1/29. It could be climbed left, center or right not drippy at all.
It was is great shape.

And
The GWI SB BBQ probably can't wait as it has been traditionally been held on Super Bowl Sunday. The GWI BBQ is the very essence of what an Ice Fest is. A gathering of "squishy bunnies", both named and anonymous, to celebrate ice, mountains, climbing, friends, spirits and grilled meats.

Going head to head with the shenanigans in LCC was perhaps not the best scheduling decision.

Crampons and Sombrero ready!

Warbonnet · · Utah, India and Cambodia · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 630

Yes, I know about the Superbowl Day traditional BBQ, however I (and others) know how much work has been put into resurrecting the Bridal Veil Falls Ice Fest.

Solution: might not be too late to cancel the SuperBowl!

Warbonnet · · Utah, India and Cambodia · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 630

Cake & eat/drink it too: best day for Bridal Veil festival may be Sat anyway then buck it up & skin over to the GWI, descending from above. Many will be impressed.

On serious side, people can attend both and should do so.

Sunny-D · · SLC, Utah · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 700

If you look at the dates you can do both. the Bridal Veil Festival is today and tomorrow (Friday and Saturday) The GWI BBQ is Sunday. So attend both...

Warbonnet · · Utah, India and Cambodia · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 630

Correct but I heard that the avi control might be an issue today (I say that based on late night rumors so apologies......this could be totally incorrect) and a few other Friday things have changed (i.e., Jeff Lowe can't make it) but I think Steve can. I hope this doesn't deter anyone from going today nor tomorrow.

You're right....thanks for the correction on dates (but you can still skin over either way!)

Sunny-D · · SLC, Utah · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 700

That wold be one Burly! ski...
Dallen

Matt Selman · · Salt Lake City · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 200

If there was any doubt, Maple still isn't in. Nothing.

Nat Shultz · · Cottonwood Heights · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 355

Anyone know if Willard Falls is in??? Much appreciated!

G Carpenter · · SLC, UT · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 210

Willard Falls was in on Dec. 22, haven't been back since so I can't attest to its current condition.

Brian in SLC · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 21,746

FYI...

avalanche warning

THIS AVALANCHE WARNING IS FOR THE MOUNTAINS OF NORTHERN AND CENTRAL UTAH. EXPECTED SNOW AND WIND FRIDAY THROUGH THE WEEKEND WILL CREATE DANGEROUS AVALANCHE CONDITIONS. THE WARNING BEGINS IN THE LOGAN AND OGDEN AREA MOUNTAINS TODAY AND THE WASATCH RANGE, UINTA MOUNTAINS AND MANTI SKYLINE TONIGHT. DANGEROUS AVALANCHE CONDITIONS SHOULD PERSIST THROUGH THE WEEKEND. THIS WARNING DOES NOT INCLUDE SKI AREAS OR HIGHWAYS WHERE AVALANCHE CONTROL IS NORMALLY DONE.

Warbonnet · · Utah, India and Cambodia · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 630

Maybe one of the worst overall ice climbing seasons we've had in years?

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern Utah & Idaho
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