Eddie coming up the first section of headwall before hitting the ridge proper.

All Locations > Colorado > CO Ice & Mixed > Indian Peaks &… > Mt Bancroft > E Ridge Direct (5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a M2-3 Steep Snow R)

Eddie coming up the first section of headwall before hitting the ridge proper.

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Part of my anchor atop P1. I used a piton and my ice tool in frozen turf. The anchor building options are slim and I ran out of gear!

Swirly rock on the approach.

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3.5 from 2 votes

Eric Klammer

Jan 24, 2014

“Eddie coming up the first section of headwall before hitting the ridge proper. ”

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Part of my anchor atop P1. I used a piton and my ice tool in frozen turf. The anchor building options are slim and I ran out of gear!

Eddie coming up the first section of headwall before hitting the ridge proper.

Swirly rock on the approach.

Beginning the lead on P1.

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Eddie traversing the first section of ridge.

View from atop our P1 looking down the route. Scottish grade probably with all the snow/ice and frozen turf.

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The pyramid-shaped formation is the NE Face of Bancroft.

Low on the NE headwall, gaining some rock to begin the roped section of climbing. 1/31/09

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The scrambling starts (I traversed climber's right of the route proper to make things more interesting).

<em>Hymenoxys grandiflora</em> (old man of the mountain).

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The 5.2 notch upclimb.

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The 5.2 notch downclimb.

Eddie about halfway up the ridge.

Looking down to Caroline Lake.

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Looking back down the route.

A marmot eating the webbing for the rap anchor.

The green line shows a direct start, but to me it seemed rather short and not worth bothering with ropes etc. especially since there's such a nice snow climb up around it.<br>
<br>
We climbed the snow (1st red line) to the base of the wall, then our P1 (blue line), the P2 (2nd red line).<br>
<br>
P1 was a full 60m.<br>
P2 was ~45m.<br>
<br>
Many variations exist.

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