Taping my Tool?

I picked up a roll of Rescue Tape ( rescuetape.com/), some kind of self-fusing silicone tape. Good stretching, good grip and feel like rubber. No glue residue from the electrical tape. This comes with variety of colors, I used black since it was on sale.

Here is a link to a climber that tape her tools with this kind of tape bumblie.com/2009/12/axe-upd…

I guess it technically works the same as the 2228 tape.

I've always used 2228 , it's way cheaper then the petzl stuff and if you stretch it nice n tight as you start wrapping it making sure ya overlap atleast 1/4 width everything works out fine .

Cheers

I wonder... can ya make tape gloves out of that 3M stuff? If it's as sticky as everyone says, it might do wonders for rattly hand cracks.

Ok guys.. want great grips on those tools..Ice Axe or any tool.. Go to your Home Depot, Lowes or Ace Hardware and but Plasti Dip under the brand name Preformix. Want some texture, add grit. Want it thick, the more times you dip it the thicker it is.
I made a tube from PVC pipe with and end cap. I cut the PVC a little longer than the handle part I wanted covered. Tape off any opening or parts below the handle on your axe. Pour the plastic dip into the PVC pipe to about 1/3rd full and dip away. Let sit for an hour or two and dip again. I only used 2 layers but you can make the grips as thick as you like with additional dips. Cut off the tape from the end within a few hours while it is still not completely cured so you can compress the rubber at the edge and clean up to a professional finish.
Plastic Dip also comes in a spray too..
I really am not advertising for these guys. This stuff works great!

I talked to a skate boarding shop re: their gritty tape and he turned me on to something that looks identical but has other desirable qualities. Apparently the skate boarding tape (black, gritty) quickly ices over in cold weather, making sketchy contact with the rider. Instead, he recommended I head to Ace Hardware (I don't think Home Depot has it....might) and pick up some stair tread. Looks identical to skate boarding grit, however, it will not freeze up between the grit particles. (It also comes in different widths).

Bingo.....it really works and does NOT freeze up. Don't know how it doesn't because it looks like the same stuff. I use it in small patches on my Cobras (like a jig saw puzzle.....no need to wrap anything). If a piece gets trashed for some reason (such as dry tooling), just cut out a patch and you're good to go.

The one downside is that they can be tough on gloves but not as much as I thought. The skate board shop owner confirmed it too; his stuff hard on gloves, stair tread not so much. I'll take a patch of stair tread judiciously placed and a bit of wear on my gloves v. not having good grip on a pumper.

Warbonnet wrote:I talked to a skate boarding shop re: their gritty tape and he turned me on to something that looks identical but has other desirable qualities. Apparently the skate boarding tape (black, gritty) quickly ices over in cold weather, making sketchy contact with the rider. Instead, he recommended I head to Ace Hardware (I don't think Home Depot has it....might) and pick up some stair tread. Looks identical to skate boarding grit, however, it will not freeze up between the grit particles. (It also comes in different widths). Bingo.....it really works and does NOT freeze up. Don't know how it doesn't because it looks like the same stuff. I use it in small patches on my Cobras (like a jig saw puzzle.....no need to wrap anything). If a piece gets trashed for some reason (such as dry tooling), just cut out a patch and you're good to go. The one downside is that they can be tough on gloves but not as much as I thought. The skate board shop owner confirmed it too; his stuff hard on gloves, stair tread not so much. I'll take a patch of stair tread judiciously placed and a bit of wear on my gloves v. not having good grip on a pumper.

The other downside to gritty tape, (aside from destroying gloves), is that it's downright masochistic to bite on. Being able to hold your tool in your mouth opens up a lot of movement that otherwise wouldn't be possible. For this reason, I prefer a soft and insulating tape on my mixed tools.

Dobson wrote: Being able to hold your tool in your mouth opens up a lot of movement that otherwise wouldn't be possible.

Aren't modern tool designed with pretty good grippy handles? Or is this more for insulating the upper parts for 2 handed grip? I'm uninformed I guess.. I try to use gloves with a better grip on palm and fingers if I need more traction on my tools.

Haha, Ray. I was pretty skeptical too until I tried it.

Try doing a match move that goes from figure 9 to figure 4. You have to put the extra tool somewhere. You can lay it on your torso (shoulder), but chances of it falling off are high. Hanging it from your thumb is more secure, but it's a two step move and the tool hangs in the way of your leg, (especially annoying for clipping). Grabbing the free tool in your teeth frees your hands in a secure way that doesn't hinder movement. I use a double layer of mastic tape at the exact balance point of the tool, so it doesn't hurt like metal or skate tape.

Figure 9 to 4 is one of the most basic moves in steep mixed climbing, so it really isn't too exotic to keep in mind. I even bite the tool in low angle terrain now that it's comfortable, but it's more convenience and less necessity.

Woodchuck ATC wrote:Aren't modern tool designed with pretty good grippy handles? Or is this more for insulating the upper parts for 2 handed grip? I'm uninformed I guess.. I try to use gloves with a better grip on palm and fingers if I need more traction on my tools.

I think the "gripping material & location" varies among stock tools, however, I think it's important to consider the "glove - tool interface", i.e., look at it as a system and modify as necessary. I see some people purchasing ice tools (beginners & others) swinging the tool around in the shop (ouch) or at least try to "feel" the lower grip but do so w/o wearing gloves. Suggest buyers bring the range of THEIR gloves they intend to use and then try the grip; some are adjustable, some are not.

Dobson wrote: Try doing a match move that goes from figure 9 to figure 4. You have to put the extra tool somewhere. Grabbing the free tool in your teeth frees your hands in a secure way that doesn't hinder movement. I use a double layer of mastic tape at the exact balance point of the tool, so it doesn't hurt like metal or skate tape. Figure 9 to 4 is one of the most basic moves in steep mixed climbing, so it really isn't too exotic to keep in mind.

Agree that 9 to 4s (or vice versa) might be aided by the denture grab, however, I don't see a lot of 4s, let alone 9 to 4s being done other than in competition or on second.

More than the tooth fairy grab, I think placing the tool over your shoulder is more stable than one might think and that is seen much more often. If you sort of "wedge" the tool between your neck & hunched shoulder (but subtle), it works but it also easily damages your $10K climbing costume. (I do like your tape suggestion though cuz I do use my teeth now & then). I often place my right tool (for example) over my left shoulder while gripping (or hanging) on my left tool while I'm removing an ice screw right-handed. I find that it's often easier to do that (esp. cuz your left arm is extended, thus minimizing the tool from falling off; almost impossible actually) than remove the screw, grap my right hand tool and obviate the possibility of having a bit of a hassle getting my right ice tool out of the ice. I just remove the screw and clip it, reach across & grab my right tool from left shoulder and I'm gone (up, hopefully).

Back in the day, I recall the trend to sew Velcro only on the shoulder areas and somehow glue the matching side to the tool. It really worked (though I didn't try it). Maybe super glue Velcro to your upper and lower teeth?

This is a good vid clip of a dry tooler with the little known "E-Climb Cryo" (a Spanish company). A Montana friend just got a pair -- best tool he's had, BTW.

You can see his figure of 9 but hard to see him move to figure 4 cuz the clip goes by too quickly but watch it several times & you can see him crank it. Also places his Cryo over the shoulder but we've all seen that.

youtube.com/watch?v=fmftNXr…

Does anyone know what tape is used by Petal to wrap Nomics? 

I tried a couple of the tapes listed here (or on a similar thread I forget) and would like something thinner. The stuff on the stock Nomics I see in the shop seems to be thinner. I am wrapping a pair of older quarks, and would like to avoid adding more width to the shafts, as it is harder to grip for my hands. 

Thanks for any thoughts. 

mike again wrote:

Does anyone know what tape is used by Petal to wrap Nomics? 

I tried a couple of the tapes listed here (or on a similar thread I forget) and would like something thinner. The stuff on the stock Nomics I see in the shop seems to be thinner. I am wrapping a pair of older quarks, and would like to avoid adding more width to the shafts, as it is harder to grip for my hands. 

Thanks for any thoughts. 

I think consensus is 3M #2155 tape. 

Petzl used to sell "Griptape" that was (or claimed to be) the same stuff used on their tools. I don't see it listed on their website but several retailer still carry it. 

alpinejason wrote:

I think consensus is 3M #2155 tape. 

Petzl used to sell "Griptape" that was (or claimed to be) the same stuff used on their tools. I don't see it listed on their website but several retailer still carry it. 

Thanks. The 2155 spec: "2 in x 100 ft x 10 mil" Wouldn't that be pretty thick? 

Anyhow, I'll try the Petzl stuff, and maybe order some of each. FWIW, it's avialable here.

I haven't used either but in general I wouldn't consider 10 mil to be very thick. A couple wraps would hardly add 1mm to the shaft diameter.

Might also explore something other than the 2" wide. Wrapping with 2" versus 3/4" will feel differently especially considering how much overlap you use on each wrap.

Let us know what you learn in the process.