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Trad/Ice Harness suggestions?

Original Post
Sam Cannon · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined May 2012 · Points: 924

I'm in the market for a new harness (I'm an alpine trad/ice climber) and haven't looked at what's available for a few years. Any suggestions on the latest and greatest, or old standbys?

I'm hoping to wittle down my choices to a few really good ones. Thanks in advance.

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

This is a lot like "what are the best shoes," in that you will get many different opinions.

Here are a couple I like:

mistymountain.com/recreatio…

metoliusclimbing.com/safe-t…

doligo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 264

I have a female version of BD Aspect - I really like it. It has 4 ice clipper loops, four gear loops, full-strength haul loop and an extra cord loop in the back for crap like cordelettes, or a puffy. It's relatively inexpensive too.

MRock · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 10

The petzl corax is one of the most comfy harness I've used. It has 2 spots for ice clippers, adjustable leg loops, dual waist buckles, and it's pretty cheap. The only thing I didn't like was the haul loop is tiny. Probably a third of a bd haul loop. But it is super comfy, nice wide waist belt. They have them at ime if you want to test it out

Sherpthederp · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 40

I've had my Wild Country Summit for half a season now and I love it, fits comfy (huge plus for me, I'm skinny and its hard to find a solid fitting harness) and its got enough gear loops for long trad routes but not enough to get in the way.

Larry S · · Easton, PA · Joined May 2010 · Points: 872

I second doligo's recommendation, I have the BD Aspect and really like it. It's pretty compact, and I'm a big fan of that extra loop in the back for stuff i don't need mid-pitch (lockers, belay device, etc). I don't ice climb, but it has clipper loops. I'm sure there are more comfortable harnesses though, and I hear Misty Mountain makes great stuff.

mitchy B · · nunya gotdamn business. · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 0

Misty Mountain Cadillac, look no further.

Nodin deSaillan · · Boulder · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 80

+1 for the Aspect. I've been pretty happy with my BD Aspect harness. It preforms well in all seasons. It has plenty of space on its five loops, and it is quite comfortable for hanging belays. The buckle is sometimes a pain to tighten/loosen, but that is my only, minor complaint. I have the fixed-leg loop version too.

Scott M. McNamara · · Presidio San Augustine Del… · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 55

Try it on.

Hang in it---in the clothes that you will be wearing climbing.

Good luck!

Jason Todd · · Cody, WY · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 1,114
mitchy wrote:Misty Mountain Cadillac, look no further.
+1

One advantage the Caddy over most other harnesses is the dual buckles. This allows you to adjust the waist to expand over your additional clothes for ice climbing and still keep the tie in and gear loops properly centered. Well built, comfy, and relatively light.
john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640

I got a petzl Corax as well and though I don't do ice, the adjustability of o it seems enormous.

Kai Larson · · Sandy, UT · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 436

For ice, make sure the attachment loops for ice clippers are in the position that you like.

I've found that they are set too far back on most harnesses for my tastes.

I like the Arcteryx I-340a because it's got lots of options for where to put the ice clippers, including pretty far forward if you want them there.

arcteryx.com/product.aspx?l…

bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065

get whatever fits ... and has clipper slots

and meets your budget ...

fit is everything ... if it dun fit, it doesnt matter how many MPers like it

;)

Sam Cannon · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined May 2012 · Points: 924

Thanks for the responses everyone!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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