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> El Cohete Lunar
Objetivo Luna
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.7 from 31
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Routes in El Cohete Lunar
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Banana Frita T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C1 |
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Objetivo Luna T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 900 ft (273 m), 8 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 4,155 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | Ryan Huetter on Apr 4, 2009 |
| Admins: | Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
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Description
This is a great route which follows an airy, exposed and natural line up the north pillar of El Cohete Lunar. The climbing is a mixture of splitter crack and vertical face climbing.
Pitch 1: Go all the way to the left along the large access ledge. Climb up to bolt anchor up beautiful right facing flake. 10b.
Pitch 2: Thin jams up to roof, traverse out and up. Keep moving up and left, following spaced out bolt line. Clip with LONG slings-drag can be crippling. 2 bolt anchor. 10c
Pitch 3: Straight up, face climbing on patina edges. Steep! Ends at gear belay on ledge. 10b
Pitch 4: 4th class with short 5.5 move to gain ledge on right side of gendarme. 1 bolt anchor, back up with gear.
Pitch 5: Stellar thin hands, hands and fists up corner. Belay atop saddle. 5.9+
Pitch 6: Out to exposed arete and climb up past bolt and around to single bolt belay. Have leader take camera with! 5.8
Pitch 7: Crux. Up face moves to base of roof. Place some extra pro below roof and jam up and over. Keep crimping to another 2 bolt anchor. 10+
Pitch 8: Single difficult move right off belay, pass one bolt and up to summit. Anchor/rap station on far side.
Decent: Single rope rap gets you down to notch, follow cairns around to backside where you will find one more 30 ft rap. Hike back down to base.
Linking pitches 4 & 5 or 5 & 6 is POSSIBLE, but will end up leaving you cursing the rope drag. Just pitch it out and enjoy the climbing!
Pitch 1: Go all the way to the left along the large access ledge. Climb up to bolt anchor up beautiful right facing flake. 10b.
Pitch 2: Thin jams up to roof, traverse out and up. Keep moving up and left, following spaced out bolt line. Clip with LONG slings-drag can be crippling. 2 bolt anchor. 10c
Pitch 3: Straight up, face climbing on patina edges. Steep! Ends at gear belay on ledge. 10b
Pitch 4: 4th class with short 5.5 move to gain ledge on right side of gendarme. 1 bolt anchor, back up with gear.
Pitch 5: Stellar thin hands, hands and fists up corner. Belay atop saddle. 5.9+
Pitch 6: Out to exposed arete and climb up past bolt and around to single bolt belay. Have leader take camera with! 5.8
Pitch 7: Crux. Up face moves to base of roof. Place some extra pro below roof and jam up and over. Keep crimping to another 2 bolt anchor. 10+
Pitch 8: Single difficult move right off belay, pass one bolt and up to summit. Anchor/rap station on far side.
Decent: Single rope rap gets you down to notch, follow cairns around to backside where you will find one more 30 ft rap. Hike back down to base.
Linking pitches 4 & 5 or 5 & 6 is POSSIBLE, but will end up leaving you cursing the rope drag. Just pitch it out and enjoy the climbing!
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