Mountain Project Logo

Suggestions for sunny multipitch route in Eldo

Original Post
Anunta Anunta · · Denver, CO · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 284

Hello gurus of MP--does anyone know of any good moderate multipitch routes in Eldo that will stay in the sun most of the day this week? This Thursday is supposed to be snowy, and I'm going to be climbing Friday.
Bastille is obviously out; I'm thinking west Redgarden might be too much in the shade. Any suggestions? Thanks people!

fossana · · leeds, ut · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 13,318
  • Wind Tower
  • S-facing routes on Redgarden (note: the start of routes like Touch and Go tend to stay shaded during the winter; plan to rap if the E Slabs are super snowy)
  • W Ridge
Anunta Anunta · · Denver, CO · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 284

Great! Sounds like the west ridge is the winner, and hopefully the snow doesn't stick. Thanks everyone!

Andy Hansen · · Longmont, CO · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 3,130
Mail Tower Link Up This is a great route. Not really that "moderate" but not all that difficult either. You can skip "Chick on The Side" and just cut to the good stuff on P2. Finishes on Handcracker. Awesome. Sleep in, gets afternoon sun- then descend the east side of West Ridge and climb something like Darkness Till Dawn or first two pitches of Green Spur.
Monty · · Golden, CO · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 3,520

Ruper on the Redgarden. As mentioned before, you may need to rap the chockstone chimney - vertigo raps if the east ledges are messy.

Ralph Swansen · · Boulder CO · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 761

Just did Ruper last Saturday. It was in the sun the whole time.

Anunta Anunta · · Denver, CO · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 284

I'll have to put Mail Tower Link up on my to do list, looks like a great route. Nice to know Ruper was in the sun all day, that might be a good one to do, although leaning more towards Long John Wall since I haven't done it yet. Thanks!

fossana · · leeds, ut · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 13,318

re: Ruper

The low angle E-facing approach slab dries out slower than the route, and in general is polished in spots. You can also approach the start from the west side (5.2 move near the bottom then easy), which holds snow b/c it is ledgy, but IMO would be less spicy than wet polished slab.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
Post a Reply to "Suggestions for sunny multipitch route in Eldo "

Log In to Reply

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started.