Mountain Project Logo

Mountaineering Boots

Original Post
TheBirdman Friedman · · Eldorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 65

I'm torn between a few different models. I really like the design, lightweight, and "fruit boot" feel of the Rebel Ultras. However, I'm concerned about warmth due to their low profile and lack of insulation. I'm in Colorado but want a boot that is pretty versatile. I have hard plastic double boots just in case Denali ever becomes objective, but I do want something that I could maybe climb in a for a few days without losing any toes in the Rockies or the Cascades. Anyone have any experience with the Rebel Ultras? I mean, I'm obviously not worried about when I'm moving around, but what about cold belays?

The other alternatives would be the Sportiva Batura 2.0's or EVOs. I guess some of the other Scarpa models might work too, such as the Phantoms. Opinions on warmth vs. performance. I'm confident the Rebel Ultras will perform great for mountaineering and ice climbing, I'm mostly concerned about the warmth.

AlpineIce · · Upstate, NY · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 255

Not sure what size you wear, but I have a basically brand new pair of Phantom Guides for sale. Box, tags and even original sales receipt included. Here is my original posting.
They're men's size 46 or 11.5-12 US. PrimaLoft insulated. They'll keep your feet warm and they climb well.

Martin Harris · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 200

I have a pair of hayland m11+

I love them
price was good they are plenty warm for most realy cold days up high and I'm not tough but they work well on hard ice and I have top roped some fairly burlymixed lines in them in vail as well.

Rockbanned brett · · Plattsburgh, Ny · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 215

I wear Nepal Evo GTX, my little brother wears the M11's. Another buddy wears the Spantiks. Spantiks are the warmest of all, that dude is an alpine guide. Little brother never gets cold in his M11's, and I love my Evo's. Think the most important thing is to get a thin pr of socks coupled with a pr of the mountaineering smartwool's, and I use foot powder directly on my feet to keep them dry. Soon as I start sweating, my feet get cold. But if I keep them dry, I can be out in zero degree weather for a full day and never have an issue. We all use those smartwool mountaineering socks with some small other sock. I prefer a thin cotton, just my preference. Cotton is supposedly bad, but the synthetic thin socks make my feet sweat. I had a pr of the Asolo boots, they worked well also. Asolo Eiger. Everything Asolo makes is pretty great. Try them all. I've heard alot of good things about Salewa as well. Good luck dude.

Dobson · · Butte, MT · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 215

Even my actual fruit boots (Kayland Ice Comp) are warm enough for belays in single digit temps. It matters how I have them laced more than anything. Crank them down right like rock shoes and my toes immediately go cold. Get back to the ground, loosen the laces, and feel the warm blood rushing back.

Same thing goes for my Nepals, just not as pronounced.

beccs · · Ontario Canada · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 200

I have the old Vasque M-Possibles. They are nice and light with *reasonable* insulation, but they're nothing compared to some of the "warm" boots that are out there.

What I have learned - you can do a lot for your feet depending on your socks. Don't cram extra think, warm socks in there. Even if your boots get a little too tight your feet will actually be colder. My go to are knee high skiing socks, which seem strangly thin for the warmth. Wearing a pair of gaitors will also help dramatically.

Most of the time we do single pitch stuff though and have only recently started using insulated pants. They are amazing.

Kai Larson · · Sandy, UT · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 436

I have the Rebel Ultras. I also have the Phantom Guides.

Here's my take on the Rebel Ultras:
If you want them to be warm enough for standing around on cold belays, you're going to need to size them up a half size.

I tried the Ultras on in various sizes. My normal Scarpa size fit very well with a thin ski sock. Felt like a very comfortable rock boot. However, there's not much insulation there. I went up 1/2 size, added a winter insole and wore thick socks. Now, the fit is like a very comfortable hiking boot. Spent 5 days ice climbing with them so far, and they are great. Feet stay warm, heels stay locked down when front pointing, and no blisters or discomfort from hiking.

A partner also has these boots. He went for a "performance fit" with thinner socks, and was getting cold feet. He's since switched to the Asolo Eiger GV, which is more insulated. (He also went with a slightly larger fit so he could wear thicker socks.) He's happier now because his feet aren't getting cold.

It has not been cold enough yet for me to figure out the lower limit for my feet in my Ultras. Temps have been pretty mild here in the mountain west, so I haven't been able to test these boots out down in the low single digits or sub-zero temps. My best guess is that these boots are going to be fine down to low teens, but in single digit temps, my toes will get cold. I have no actual experience yet to back that up.

The Phantom Guides are a warmer boot that still climb and hike very well. I've used the Guides in temps around zero, and have not had issues. (Feet were not toasty, but weren't really cold either.) The Ultra climbs and hikes better, the Phantom is warmer. It's a trade off. Before I tried the Ultras, the Phantoms were my ideal boot, so I don't think you will be disappointed with their performance. They just aren't quite as light or sensitive as the Ultra.

I'd recommend also taking a look at the Asolo Eiger GV. It's slotted in between the Phantom Guide and Rebel Ultra. My buddy really likes his, and they are very light, while still being well insulated. Might be a good compromise.

Eric G. · · Saratoga Springs, NY · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 70
beccs wrote:. Wearing a pair of gaitors will also help dramatically.
I'd be wary of this advice. In my experience, you are warmer at first or when standing around at the start of the day, but the trapped moisture ends up making you much colder.
beccs · · Ontario Canada · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 200
The Cowardly Noob wrote: I'd be wary of this advice. In my experience, you are warmer at first or when standing around at the start of the day, but the trapped moisture ends up making you much colder.
If you are sweating then you are over dressed. Goes with part of your layering system.
iceman777 · · Colorado Springs · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 60

Light weight boot = cold feet when the temps drop and your wearing crampons period

Take it from a guy with the worlds coldest feet , I only climb everything in doubles now
Because no model of leather boot idk how insulated or what magic foot beds I've ever used have once passed the test . Yes some are a little warmer than others but that's it
A little warmer.
Here is my list of boots I've wasted good money on only to discover they all SUCK!
Both model of the Nepal evos gtx
Both versions of the Batura
Kayland m11
Scarpa freeny gtx the coldest wettest POS I've ever had the displeasure of wearing
Millet radical
Scarpa phantom guides out of every boot this boot was by far the warmest single boot I've owned , I was almost tempted to purchase the 6000s just for this reason as I thought they might be warm enough to the point of being tolerable with a little help from some good footbeds and a couple chemical heat packs . I chose to go with double plastics and never looked back .

Now before you start slamming me let me state that I bought each and everyone of the aforementioned boots with the intention of ICE CLIMBING in them this means standing around belaying or climbing ALL DAY ON ICE while wearing CRAMPONS! That for me is the real test of how warm a boot is and they all pretty much SUC at that ! Ie they all fail and get cold , I get cold feet . Game over and I'm stuck trying to sell yet another pair of failures .

If you want to keep ur feet warm ice climbing all day in any single boot when the temps are 20* or below you had better have good circulation first and foremost this will mean good fit , take this next statement for what it's worth EVERY BOOT FITS &FEELS GOOD IN THE STORE! But your not climbing in the store ... RIGHT?!

What everything boils down to is your own personal tolerance of cold feet, and trust me they will get cold , anyone who says otherwise is full of shit !

So ask yourself what tolerance your willing to commit to and what you want from your boots all the time remembering that its going to be a compromise .

Why ? Because if there was a good single boot out there that met every criteria then there wouldn't be so many choices .

Don't even get me started on packs .

Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480

I have experience with the new Rebels. They are BADASS if it's above 15 degrees. I can wear them when it's colder but I got some fat on my bones Haha.. I've worn the Jorasses when it's -13 and been good. The Rebels are not as warm as the Jorasses. I think the Rebels are the best boot I've seen for mixed and hard ice. You'll just need another pair for the cold days.

I will say I don't like the fit of the La Sportiva Trangos. I'm surprised as I love every other boot La Sportiva makes.

I own a pair Baturas. They climb really good! Super warm. I have the ones before the 2.0 and haven't had any problems with the zipper or anything else. I got them a half size up for warmth and the Baturas lace up tight with no heel lift. I've climbed in them when it's right below freezing and didn't end up with moist feet at the end of the day.

I rocked a pair of Phantom Guides 6000s one day and like those too. They did good for a double boot. I would like to try a pair of Barnastues(I know spelling) The La Sportiva doubles.

I think the best thing to do would be try on as many pairs of boots possible and see what fits best for your foot. The Rebels get my vote. Wear those doubles you got til you get more coin for another pair! haha

Iceman, That's pretty beat to hear about your cold ass feet. What double plastics do you use? That must suck to have to wear doubles everyday no?

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,492

Kirby, I think the boots you're referring to are the Baruntses. They are HUGE compared to more performance-oriented ice boots. But I imagine that translates to them being warmer.

Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480

Thanks Mike! So those doubles kinda suck for ice climbing? I met a guy who only climbed in Baruntases. He loved them but I don't think he was leading. I guess I'll stick with my Baturas for real cold temps.

Dane · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 562

Just a few thoughts here....

"this means standing around belaying or climbing ALL DAY ON ICE while wearing CRAMPONS!"

If your day is spent standing around and belaying in an ice park or practice area I would dress a lot warmer than a day out cragging where you are seldom standing around for long periods and climbing/moving more.

Just be honest with yourself on what you need the boot to do. If it is hanging out in Hafner or Ouray in the shade while you are your partner TR at your limit I'd dress warm and get the warmest boot possible..doubles if you can afford or use them for other things.

Lighter but not as warm of boots are much more fun to climb in. Rebel Uutra is like no other ice boot for weight. Just not as warm as some. It might be a good trade off for you or a disaster. Lots of guys spending the days standing around and belaying between climbs wear really light weight boots and simply wear good winter boots like Soreals to the crag so they stay warm. But your terrain has to allow it.

Point well taken if you are wearing steel crampons all day they do suck the heat out of your feet. So unless required I don't wear my crampons. You'll see people in Bozeman put on their crampons at the car and climb all day. I put mine on there at the first climb and take them off whan I move to the next one. Easy enough to do.

I've climbed in several brands/models of plastic boots over the years. I think most will find the newer doubles (read not plastic), better fitting, lighter, warmer and easier to climb in. They do how ever lack the durability of a plastic boot. For most that is an easy trade off. Most simply don't wear out double boots.

The best comparison to a lwt technical ice single boot these days with the warmth of a double, is a Scarpa 6000. Only grams difference from the best a single ice boots and as warm as any thing available short of a triple boot like the Oly Mons. I can highly recommend the 6000. But I can also highly recommend the Rebel Ultra, Batura 2.0 or Phantom Guide or Zamberlan Eiger. All good boots for cold weather ice climbing.

But don't forget that just about every hard ice climb in the world was done first in a plastic double. And any of the modern doubles, plastic or fabric will still climb any ice that has been climbed, easily . The really lwt single boots (Batura 2.0 or Rebel Ultra) only gain a real advantage when you start doing/talking hard mixed and much of that is simply added ankle flexability and the most obvious, lower volume.

More importantly I think is find which brand fits you the best first then decide how much warmth is required. I love my Rebel Ultras...but they are not the warmest boot I own....just the lightest.

Which in turn allows me to move faster and stay warmer. But If I had to stand around all day in crampons and belay...no way would the Rebal Ultra be the boot I'd willingly choose for that suffer fest, even if the ice was melting :)

Seems like you have the plastic boot already for the really cold days. I use two boots a lot now..the 6000 and the Rebel Ultra. And I am try to stay really attentive about how my feet are doing in the Ultra when the temps drop or I get dehydrated and tired.

JT Croston · · Nelson, BC · Joined May 2012 · Points: 205

I bought the Mammut Mamook GTX boots this year. My friend has had them for a few seasons as swears by them. I have been out mixed climbing in -4 f (-20 C) and with a nice pair of socks was warm all day. The same couldnt be said for my friends in scarps (dont remember what model). They work well on vertical ice, overhanging mixed, and edge well when out of the crampons. Best part is the price....check it out

backcountry.com/mammut-mamo…

Avalon · · East Longmeadow MA · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 50
JT Croston wrote:I bought the Mammut Mamook GTX boots this year. My friend has had them for a few seasons as swears by them. I have been out mixed climbing in -4 f (-20 C) and with a nice pair of socks was warm all day. The same couldnt be said for my friends in scarps (dont remember what model). They work well on vertical ice, overhanging mixed, and edge well when out of the crampons. Best part is the price....check it out backcountry.com/mammut-mamo…
I just spent the day ice climbing in my Scarpa Mont Blancs wearing a nice smart wool mountaineering sock and my feet were warm and comfortable all day. It was -1 degree with a wind chill factor of -19. I love mammut products but Scarpa makes excellent footwear.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Climbing Gear Discussion
Post a Reply to "Mountaineering Boots"

Log In to Reply

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started.