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Elevation: 1,126 ft
GPS: 35.9631, -81.12044
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 128,606 total · 1,024/month
Shared By: Ryan Beasley on Dec 28, 2013 · Updates
Admins: Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier

Description Suggest change

This sunny rock face was operated as a quarry in the 1920s. In 2013 it opened as a recreational venue operated as a municipal park by Alexander County. Rebolting is ongoing to upgrade aged fixed anchors. The rock quality is variable and the cliff sheds loose rock regularly. A helmet is advised for climbers and belayers. The park is located on Rocky Face Church Road just outside the town of Hiddenite.

History
Rocky Face is a man-made crag. A former quarry in the early to mid 1900s. The earliest documentation of the quarry used for climbing or rappelling was in the 1970s. The US Army Reservists 3rd Brigrade, 518 Division out of Hickory used Rocky Face for rappelling training in 1975. Later, a few local climbers would discover the mountain. The ethics then, were strictly traditional, all but one bolt had been put in on lead. This bolt was placed by Ben Dunlap and Terry Wright in a rainstorm, with a hardware store bought drill and a homemade hammer. This was the second bolt they had ever placed. As of 1993, only one route saw the power drill, it was done from the ground up.

With permission from the first ascensionists (local climber, Steve Pope and others), many of the original routes have been retro-bolted for the enjoyment of generations of climbers. As an ongoing process, new routes for all levels of climbing ability are being established, creating even more energy around Rocky Face as a destination for sport and toprope climbing. The Carolina Climbers Coalition (CCC), CCC representative and Rock Dimensions owner, Ryan Beasley; along with locals Johnny O Connell and Travis Mabe have been important partners in helping to establish rock climbing as a major activity of the park.

To learn more about the Park and see a video from UNC TV NC Weekend.

http://video.unctv.org/video/2365143783/

Rocky Face Park has a great website with topo images.

Rocky Face Park Website

Getting There Suggest change

From Interstate 40 in Iredell County, travel US 64 West approximately 14 miles. Turn right at stoplight on Millersville Road. Travel one-half mile to stop sign on NC 90 and turn left. Travel one-half mile and turn right on White Plains Rd. Travel to stop sign and turn right on Rocky Springs Road. Travel 1.4 miles and turn left on Rocky Face Church Road. Park is 1.2 miles on right.

From Interstate 40 in Catawba County, travel NC 16 North toward Taylorsville and turn east onto US 64. Travel to stoplight at Millersville Road and turn left.Travel one-half mile to stop sign on NC 90 and turn left. Travel one-half mile and turn right on White Plains Rd. Travel to stop sign and turn right on Rocky Springs Road. Travel 1.4 miles and turn left on Rocky Face Church Road. Park is 1.2 miles on right.

From NC 16 North in Wilkes County, travel NC 16 South toward Taylorsville and turn east onto US 64. (Follow directions above from Millersville Road) From US 64/NC 90 in Caldwell County. Travel east onto US 64. (Follow directions above from Millersville Road)

81 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Rocky Face Recreational Area Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Rocky Face Recreational Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 36
Leaky Roof
Sport, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 40
Original Route Direct
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 51
Too Short
Sport, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 66
Left Of Time
Sport, TR
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 76
Flight Time
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 73
Sunny Day
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 35
Bob Right
Sport, TR
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 27
Ben's Done Been (AKA Bat Flake)
Sport, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 70
Blast in Black
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 44
The Twins Right
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 10
Bullistics
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 41
Crimps and Slopers
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 38
Black Hole
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 33
Mr. Aidman's Free
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 20
Double Roof Ballet
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Leaky Roof Section 1
 36
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Sport, TR
Original Route Direct Section 2
 40
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Too Short Section 1
 51
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport, TR
Left Of Time Section 4
 66
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport, TR
Flight Time Section 4
 76
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Sunny Day Section 2
 73
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Bob Right Section 1
 35
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, TR
Ben's Done Been (AKA Bat Fl… Section 1
 27
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Sport, TR
Blast in Black Section 4
 70
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
The Twins Right Section 2
 44
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Bullistics Section 5 > Upper Tier
 10
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Crimps and Slopers Section 4
 41
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Black Hole Section 4
 38
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Mr. Aidman's Free Section 4
 33
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Double Roof Ballet Section 4
 20
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Rocky Face Recreational Area »

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