Type: Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: JJ Schlick, James Q Martin 2009
Page Views: 2,332 total · 13/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Jun 16, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

A fine pitch despite the blocky, broken start. This scrappy all natural gear line has some excellent, sequential climbing with precise, small gear placements at the crux. This is another reasonably graded primer line where the crux coincides with the smallest gear. If you’re working your way through the grades with loftier, more committing goals, then don't take a pass on this. Modern gear has taken the sting out this line to a degree and the #2 offers a solid back up as you’re a ways up at the crux. 

Start right of The Harder they Come, in a large weakness with a sycamore growing out of it. Move up past blocks and left under the roofs. Get established in the steep fingers of a left facing dihedral. A #0 and #2 TCU give you some comfort in the beginning of the fingers, and be ready to fire in a couple more finger cams.

After the fingers section you will pass a horizontal break and a hands pod- #2 Camalot. Rest up and start sorting out the moves and gear above you. The crux is technical stemming with edges and tips(ish). The crack widens just a bit after the crux so save a couple #1 Blue Metolious to give you a sense of solidity as you crank off the airy last jams and a final pillar mantle to finish things off. Full value for the grade.

Protection Suggest change

Round up the smallest cams you have. Sliders and small wires would find a home in the the crux. #2 camalot will find a home mid route, before the crux. Which is generous considering.

Location Suggest change

To the right of The Harder They Come.

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