Crescent Moon
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British PG13
Avg: 3 from 23 votes
Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
FA: | JJ Schlick, James Q Martin 2009 |
Page Views: | 2,332 total · 13/month |
Shared By: | JJ Schlick on Jun 16, 2009 |
Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Description
A fine pitch despite the blocky, broken start. This scrappy all natural gear line has some excellent, sequential climbing with precise, small gear placements at the crux. This is another reasonably graded primer line where the crux coincides with the smallest gear. If you’re working your way through the grades with loftier, more committing goals, then don't take a pass on this. Modern gear has taken the sting out this line to a degree and the #2 offers a solid back up as you’re a ways up at the crux.
Start right of The Harder they Come, in a large weakness with a sycamore growing out of it. Move up past blocks and left under the roofs. Get established in the steep fingers of a left facing dihedral. A #0 and #2 TCU give you some comfort in the beginning of the fingers, and be ready to fire in a couple more finger cams.
After the fingers section you will pass a horizontal break and a hands pod- #2 Camalot. Rest up and start sorting out the moves and gear above you. The crux is technical stemming with edges and tips(ish). The crack widens just a bit after the crux so save a couple #1 Blue Metolious to give you a sense of solidity as you crank off the airy last jams and a final pillar mantle to finish things off. Full value for the grade.
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