Type: Trad, 55 ft (17 m)
FA: Richard and Joyce Rossiter, 1988.
Page Views: 2,282 total · 8/month
Shared By: Kristo torgersen on Jul 7, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

This route is better known as "Sex", thus completeing the trio of "restday favorites". It starts right of the slab below the summit of Der Freischutz and follows 2 bolts into a left-leaning corner to the top. After clipping the first bolt, make 5.9 moves up into the left-facing flake, where a blue Metolius cam can be placed if so desired. Mantel on top of the flake and clip the second bolt. Climb the face up into the crack (10a crux), place a few small wires, and follow the crack (5.9) to the top. Here, a directional wire can be placed in a notch (to protect a second climber) and the leader can down climb right to the anchors. 50 feet. Rappel from anchors.

Protection Suggest change

Bring a blue Metolius TCU, several quickdraws, and a set of small nuts.

Per Aeon Aki: this route now has its own set of anchors eliminating the need to "down climb" to the Drugs chains.

Photos

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