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3rd Flatiron climbable this week?

Original Post
Jon H · · PC, UT · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 118

Any Boulder locals mind peeking out the window for me? How much snow is up there?

I'll be passing through Boulder this week and with the perfect weather forecast, I'm thinking it might be nice to run up before the falcon closures start soon.

Thanks!

Steve Levin · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 952

Should be climbable right now. Might be a little residual snow/ice deep in gullies, and the descent trail will be snowy/icy.

fossana · · leeds, ut · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 13,318

We climbed most of First on Sat (bailed before joining the N Arete due to winds). There were avoidable sections of snow and ice, but there has also been more melting since. Watch the wind forecast; it has been gusty up there even if the winds are calm at the base.

crappy photo from today, but you get the idea:

Bad photo of Flatirons conditions as of 15 Jan 2014.

Sat's conditions on First (and no, I don't normally climb in a salwar kameez)
First conditions on 11 Jan 2014.

Another photo of First conditions on 11 Jan.

Long Ranger · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 669

Watched someone free solo the 3rd on Sun w/rope for the rappel. Looked pretty devoid of snow, from the base.

Rick Blair · · Denver · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 266

I honestly had no ideas what "salwar kameez" were so I googled it. That might be a good look for you when you climb, you should probably stick with it.

There are some old photos of a climbing club in Boulder back in the late 1800s or so, the women used to free solo the 3rd in dresses, bad ass if you ask me.

fossana · · leeds, ut · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 13,318
Rick Blair wrote:...That might be a good look for you when you climb, you should probably stick with it. There are some old photos of a climbing club in Boulder back in the late 1800s or so, the women used to free solo the 3rd in dresses, bad ass if you ask me...
TooTallTim and I have been logging some vertical in various costumes. Soloing in a corset and all of that fabric, now that is bad ass.
Rick Blair · · Denver · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 266

That's pretty harrowing soloing the 1st with ice possibly blocking the route and starting off the Deck with wet shoes. I don't think I could do that, even in a dress.

Brad White · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2006 · Points: 25

Fossana, that looks like a tasty little runnel of ice in that third photo. And I'm pretty sure it's not on the so-called Silk Road route.

Tony B · · Around Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 24,665

Get it prior to 2/1 when the cliff-chicken closures shut it down!

fossana · · leeds, ut · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 13,318
Brad White wrote:Fossana, that looks like a tasty little runnel of ice in that third photo. And I'm pretty sure it's not on the so-called Silk Road route.
Brad, thanks for the reminder. I could not remember the name of the mixed route when someone asked me on the approach. Whatever this is, it was scary wet and thin on Sat.
Brad White · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2006 · Points: 25

Fossana, the "Silk Road", which is a brilliant route is quite a bit climbers' right of the Standard Route. I don't have my reading glasses at work with me today, so your pictures look like soloing mixed climbing in skirts. Now that would be bad ass. :-)

Cor · · Sandbagging since 1989 · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 1,445

It is the bottom of the silk road… It rarely forms that low.
Usually you cut in from the right, and up the gully above the stairs a bit.

I have done it once when it was that low! Makes the start much mellower.

fossana · · leeds, ut · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 13,318
Cor wrote:It is the bottom of the silk road…
Though I'm no expert on Flatirons mixed routes this description has it as further right, as mentioned by Brad. This is consistent with Haas' description of what he calls the NE Gully, which he states is also a mixed route.
Cor · · Sandbagging since 1989 · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 1,445

Wow.. I didn't realize that the ice in the picture went somewhere other then the gully(on 1st)...

fossana · · leeds, ut · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 13,318

The flow in the pic was just left of E Face Direct.

Cor · · Sandbagging since 1989 · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 1,445

Wow, thanks.. I didn't realize that one!
The picture lookinh down, i thought you were more to the side...

brenta · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 75

Conditions report:

The Third still has some ice in the gully before the second eyebolt. I crossed a little higher.

Freeway has some ice and snow at the start that can be avoided on the right.

The start to Baker's Way is icy and a little dicier than usual. The rest of the route and the North Arête have a little snow that is easily avoided.

The first 20 feet of Fandango are covered by ice. From the start, the Direct East Face looked cleaner than in the pictures above.

All trails have icy stretches.

Jon H · · PC, UT · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 118

Wonderful, thanks for all the conditions reports folks. Much appreciated!

flynn · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2002 · Points: 25

Some sort of traction devices for use on the approaches/descents will probably make you very happy. YakTrax, StabilIcers, even golf shoes will help. The trails are so shaded that they develop scary icy spots that stay until everything melts off...in March or April.

fossana · · leeds, ut · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 13,318

Despite the balmy temps there is still ice and snow in spots, as Brenta mentioned. Expect a snowy start at the bottom of First Flatiron routes The trough near the top of E Face Direct is holding snow. The downclimb off the First is free of ice and snow. A few more photos from today:

3rd to 1st.

2 guys on Far Right/N Arete.

A few patches of ice/snow remain.

Ice on the bottom of Fandango.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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