Leashless Tools and Alpine Climbing?

I am a recent user of leashless ice tools.

I've got a pair of BD Cobras and have been using them for waterfall ice climbing. After some initial skepticism, I am converted to leashless for waterfall ice. They make climbing easier, placing protection easier, and in general more enjoyable. I now much prefer leashless tools, and really wouldn't consider going back to leashed tools on water ice.

I have never used my leashless Cobras for alpine routes. For years, I've been using a pair of BD Carbon fiber Black Prophet tools on any alpine route where two tools are needed. In spite of their age, they are light, efficient, solid tools.

However, I see pictures of Colin Haley, Uli Steck, and the other gods in the alpine climbing pantheon all climbing alpine routes with leashless tools. I've been reluctant to follow their example for a few reasons:

1: The alpine routes I climb tend to be relatively moderate. Lots of cruising up relatively low angle slopes, and the cruxes tend to be less steep than the waterfalls I climb. In general, the steepness and technical nature of the alpine stuff I'm climbing is lower than my waterfall cragging. I find the benefits of leashless tools seem to be less pronounced on more moderate terrain.

2: When climbing an alpine route, I seem to spend a lot of time moving quickly over easy ground with little or no protection. I'm often climbing stuff where I'm unlikely to fall, but if I did, I'd likely die or at least be seriously injured. Having the wrist loop secured around my wrist gives me a sense of security I don't get when I'm climbing leashless. When I get a good tool placement in solid neve on my leashed tools, I almost feel like I've got a portable belay. This helps me deal with the exposure of my situation and keeps me calm in no-fall zones.

3: I assume that it's easier to plunge the shaft of a tool into hard snow with a leashless tool, because there's no finger rest thingie on the bottom. Haven't used a leashless tool in this manner, so maybe I'm wrong on this. On a lot of alpine routes, particularly ridges, I find I'm often plunging the shaft of the tool into the snow for security. Not sure if this would work as well with a leashless tool.

All these things considered, I'm still wondering if I should start taking my leashless Cobras on my technical alpine climbs. Wondering if I will be happy with them in that environment like I am on water ice.

What are your experiences? When do you use leashless tools on alpine routes, and why?

I started ice and alpine climbing 5 years ago so I've only owned leashless tools and as such, I've only climbed on leashless. I think Cobras are the best all around moderate alpine tool on the market today, bar none. I only switch to my Nomics if I'm expecting M6 or higher.

On steep snow, there's nothing I like more than having Cobras in my hands in "high dagger" (Holding the shafts just below the axe head) and just climbing fast.

Some suggestions:
I only use umbilicals rarely, but they do give a feeling of a great "moving belay." And of course, they allow much more freedom than wrist leashes.

You can also remove the pinky hooks from the Cobras. I've never felt the need to take them off, but the option is there if you're expecting to do lots of plunging.

I have always climbed leashless with cobras and that is what I use on alpine as well as waterfall ice. When I climb alpine I use tethers so that dropping a tool is not an issue. However you should never rely on a tether system to arrest a fall.

Honestly based on what kinds of routes you are describing I would just climb with your old prophets. They will be more secure with leashes, and they will plunge better.

If you start climbing harder more technical routes in the alpine then going the leashless route in the alpine will make more sense.

You can remove the pinky rest and fang from the Cobras to make them plunge more easily. On low angled terrain, clip tethers to the head of the tool, on steeper terrain clip the tethers to the spike.

I use BD spinner leash, which is more a tether, whenever I'm in a position that I really don't want to drop a tool. For resting or emergencies I have a daisy chain on my harness that I can use to clip into one or the other tool.

Like others have said, never rely on the tether to catch a fall, and the BD spinners you should never sit on either. So far I've had a fairly good experience with that tether. I can switch tools easily and don't have to worry about dropping a tool.

Ben Beckerich wrote: Why not?

There are meant to keep you from dropping a tool not from dropping on to a tool:

blackdiamondequipment.com/e…

As for leashes. I am old fart and still climb with leashes, first gen cobras. Where I find them useful on alpine climbs is when I do mixed moves. No not those mixed moves real mixed moves where I using my hands. I can release the tool and use my hands. Yes, it can be a bit bumbly but with a leashless tool one needs to harness it. Not harnessing it may lead to dropping it. Yes, sometimes you can put on tool on your shoulder but who wants to take a chance on it coming off mid - move ? Otherwise one need to tether the tool which has its own issues.

Ben Beckerich wrote: You said don't sit on them, and that article says you CAN sit on them. I sit on mine sometimes.. as the article states, you just have to make sure that the anchorage you're choosing to hang them on is going to hold your weight. I never sit on questionable placements- that's obviously stoopid.

The other person said not to sit on them ... I said not to drop on to them.

Kai Larson wrote: After some initial skepticism, I am converted to leashless for waterfall ice.

Still evaluating hip belays versus belay devices? :P

NorCalNomad wrote: Still evaluating hip belays versus belay devices? :P

Used a hip belay today as a matter of fact. An icy bulge in the middle of otherwise easy ground. Not serious enough to merit a belay device, but needed some protection. I sometimes weave the rope in between rock horns instead of using Camalots too. (I'm pretty old school.)