Road trip Advice

My cousin and I are considering a road trip at the end of this summer that will take us from Bloomington, IN to Claremont, CA. We have two to three weeks and between 36 to 40 hours of driving. We're looking for easy multi-pitch stuff (sub 5.10). We were thinking of hitting Devil's tower and maybe Red Rocks or Castleton Tower (we don't have the balls to show our faces in Yosemite yet). We'd love to hear suggestions for destinations, road trip tips, anything at all. Please, do weigh in on this pressing matter.

Depends how far out of your way north you are willing to go.

Black Hills, Wyoming then south is what I would do. Amazing climbing of all kinds around. Devils Tower, sport climbing in ten sleep and lander, and it would be the perfect time to do some longer routes in the tetons (check out the CMC on Moran, Irenes Arete, Petzoldt Ridge). This would leave you a great trip down through Utah, little cotton wood, maple canyon has some bolted multi-pitch and fun sport. Desert towers aren't going to be your best place to find easy multi-pitch, I haven't climbed Castleton but I've heard the routes are stout for the grade, something to keep in mind, and it will be hot end of summer.

Your other option is Colorado. End of the summer, you could explore the flatirons, head up to Estes park, eldorado cnayon, lumpy ridge. There is endless climbing in Colorado.

I personally would do the extra driving, go through the black hills, devils tower, pick off 2 or 3 great routes in the tetons, and head south.

Red rocks is an amazing place but it will be brutal heat wise at the end of summer, think pretty much unclimbable, Same goes for J-Tree, which is a shame because you will drive right past both, check out tahquitz, and good luck!

Don't consider it, do it, it will change your life! Know your limits, 5.9 on gear outdoors is much different then 5.11 on bolts at the red not trying to be a dick just don't know what you and your cousins abilities are, definetly know some self-rescue before you go, and get up early everyday and send!

Good advice above. Avoid Red Rocks, J-Tree, and the desert towers at that time of year; way too hot to be worth it. Yosemite (Valley) is an oven in the summer too. Yes, it might be possible to climb there, but you are better off saving those for another trip, at the appropriate time of year. Even Devil's Tower is kinda hot then. There are lots of places that are in season and wonderful at that time of year; climb at those places.

While it is tempting to try to hit every major area you pass by, I feel like I get a lot more out of a climbing trip if I pick a couple really top notch areas, and stay a week at each. This allows for less logistical shenanigans, more days of climbing, less driving, a more relaxed trip, and it lets you get to know an area better.

Given your route and your climbing preferences, I think that a good route would be Midwest-> Estes Park, CO -> Tahoe, CA -> Tuolomne, CA -> Claremont. This would make for a reasonably direct driving route (i.e. you won't be going to far North, out of your way), and would take you to great summer crags for moderate multipitch.

Basic idea: make a beeline to Estes Park for long moderates at Lumpy and in RMNP. Watch for thunderstorms; if CO is in a bad weather cycle (i.e. daily storms at noon), bail early and head to CA. A day or two down at Eldo and the Flatirons (which isn't too far away) might be worth it too, although those areas are hotter in the summer. Then, leave Estes and make a beeline for California. Yes, you will drive by many good crags, but that is OK; the crags you are headed for are even better (and not as hot). Go first to Tahoe, and focus your climbing on Lover's Leap. Simply put, it is the best crag in the United States for 3-5 pitch trad routes at the 5.6-5.9 range (although the Gunks are a contender for that title as well). You will love it there. Nice temps in the morning shade. Spend 3 or 4 days there. Then cruise down to Tuolomne, and climb more stuff there. Lots of great moderates on some nifty peaks and domes. Finally, drive down the Eastside on the 395 through Bishop on the way to LA. Maybe stop for a day somewhere on the eastside to bag a 14er, or do some routes in Rock Creek.

I have to agree with JCM the Leap is one of the greatest crags in the country, easy camping, easy approach, amazing rock, great climbs and great people in strawberry, corrugation corner might be the best 3 pitch 5.7 anywhere. I'm partial to the tetons, i cut my teeth there, but the approaches are long and you will spend a lot more time hiking then actually rock climbing. If you end up going this way look at doing the east buttress of Whitney on your way south to get your alpine rock in.

I also have to toss Seneca Rocks in the discussion for best 3-5 pitch 5.6-5.9's in the country

Another vote for the Tahoe area here. It's just sweet. After that, you can hop on the 395 and head south through the Owens Valley. Whitney portal has some more multi pitch granite.

Don't fear the Valley!

The inspiration you'll get from just stumbling around will get you psyched to try harder, and hell, you might even get up some routes.

East side of the Sierra.

Don't limit yourself with numbers! Climb a lot and you may get on your dream 5.10. Don't ignore sport climbing; Wyoming limestone is absolutely sick.

gf9318 wrote:Don't fear the Valley! The inspiration you'll get from just stumbling around will get you psyched to try harder, and hell, you might even get up some routes. East side of the Sierra. Don't limit yourself with numbers! Climb a lot and you may get on your dream 5.10. Don't ignore sport climbing; Wyoming limestone is absolutely sick.

Agreed. I would personally spend a week or two at a shady sport crag, get strong and just show up in the Valley in September! If it's too hot just go to the Eastside.

Alpine routes are great that time of the year, but personally with your time constraints I would maybe save one route for the end. It just takes a lot out of you even if you think you're not conditioned, and you may have to take couple of days off just to recover after it. And if you spend 2-3 days for a climb, boom almost a week gone for just one climb.

Hey, George, I bet you guys are loving this road closure - untouched stashes of pow and no lines for ice climbs?

Edited to add: FWIW Devil's Tower is hot as hell that time of the year as well.

Moab and RR would be pretty warm even if you climb in the shade. Swing by the E Side and hit the High Sierra. There are also many moderate multi-pitch routes Tuolumne and you don't have to worry about chasing the shade as you would with the Valley.

If the monsoon/thunderstorm situation at the end of the summer is anything like 2013, then I'd swing north like the first guy said and avoid Colorado. If you didn't get it done by noon this summer you didn't get it done.

Rob Dillon wrote:If the monsoon/thunderstorm situation at the end of the summer is anything like 2013, then I'd swing north like the first guy said and avoid Colorado. If you didn't get it done by noon this summer you didn't get it done.

Alternatively, just do all the driving in the beginning and drive straight to CA for Tahoe/TM/Sierra. Best rock and best summer weather in the country. 2-3 weeks would barely be enough time to get a taste of all the offerings out there.

I'd take a couple of days to hit City of Rocks, in Idaho and maybe a day in Maple Canyon. You ought to be able to work that into your drive from Wyoming to California.

Thanks for the suggestions guys! after looking for easy stuff in Yosemite, Tuolumne Meadows piqued my interest. Any reccomendations there or elsewhere in the nearby area?

Conor Galvin wrote:Thanks for the suggestions guys! after looking for easy stuff in Yosemite, Tuolumne Meadows piqued my interest. Any reccomendations there or elsewhere in the nearby area?

I've been leading regularly for about 9 years. When I'm on top of my game, unfamiliar non-R 5.9s are ok and easy 5.10s need to have very good pro. :-) Multi-pitch in the mountains has always been my prime interest.

Made week-long trips to Tuolumne Meadows over the last two summers. Both trips were in late July and early August. Temperatures are great that time of year. We stayed in Tuolumne Campgrounds which has a reservation system one needs to jump on at the opening bell. They also hold some on a first-come-first-serve basis which worked for us the first year - got in line at the reservation office before 6 AM and found a fellow sleeping in a bag on the porch!

For camp ground reservations, I typically have some sync'd clock ticking off by the second (e.g., a networked computer), and am already logged into the system, well before reservations can be made, with the form filled out. I've also heard some folks will have the computer ready to go like that plus be on the phone trying for whichever gets through first.

Climbing can be more run-out and/or X than in other areas. Let me rephrase that - Tuolumne R's and X's are much more severe than you might expect. Still, with care, you can make the right decisions about what to climb and what not to climb. I think in about 14 days of climbing, I hit three routes that were pretty serious R for me. One of those was because we were off adventure climbing when I left the beta on top of the car 3 miles back in the parking lot (most approaches are much shorter). Another was because we had the wrong MP.com comments on the back of the route description I'd printed out - "lots of protection and take 4 inch gear to protect the bulge" - NOT. The third (which was actually the first serious R route for me there) was something my partner had already been on with someone else and so was self-inflicted. :-)

Get a good guide and take any R rating very seriously.

I've heard mosquitoes can be a problem in a wet year - haven't experienced that myself. Last year was unusually wet for our week according to a veteran climber. But we just made it a habit of getting up early with a plan from the night before so as to be able to be hiking out by early afternoon if needed. And we watched the precip potential very closely. Take an extra lead rope so the wet one can be left to dry in the tent.

Be prepared for keeping all food in the bear boxes. Get the inside dimensions. Find multiple containers that will use up most all the space without being individually too heavy.

I think it's a wonderful place ... if you couldn't tell. :-)

Devil's Tower > City of Rock > Lover's Leap!

Or just head straight to Tuolumne.

Maple canyon ut has some awesome moderate multipitch stuff. And when I say some I mean dozens. It's super unique cobble you won't find anywhere. It'll probably be swamped during your time frame...