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The Decompensator of Lhasa
5.10c/d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 3.3 from 73
votes
Routes in Grain Surgery Wall
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Decompensator of Lhasa, The T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Deflowered T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Fist Full of Crystals T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Grain Surgery T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Hoopharkz T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Phineas P. Phart T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Phineas' Pinnacle T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Super Monster Killer T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Charles Cole and Randy Vogel, February 1980 |
| Page Views: | 5,937 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | Randy on Jan 18, 2003 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Located on the right hand face of the upper east side of Steve Canyon. Start off a boulder to the right of the large central chimney system (Hoopharkz, 5.4).
From the boulder, reach out right to a horizontal and the left-arching crack system above (small cams). A direct start is possible (5.11c/d) but the complete lack of pro keeps people off. Above, gear in the horizontal protects moves up to steep friction past 2 bolts (crux). Higher, a third bolt protects a traverse right to the arete where a 4th and last bolt protects moves to the top.
As an alternative start, begin some 15-20 right and below the boulder up right slanting cracks to a ledge (5.10a/b). Belay here (to avoid rope drag) and traverse left to the upper bolted face. This is actually the way the first ascent went.
When this was first done in EB's, the smearing seemed way hard; modern rubber has taken the bite out of the difficulty.
BTW, There has never been a fixed anchor on top of this part of the formation. Save a couple pieces for the anchor. Walk-off/Downclimb is to the far left (down and then under large block).
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