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Best Mulipitch Rope?

mattm · · TX · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 1,885

- 70m can be useful for multi pitch IF linking pitches make sense. Many older routes had short pitches so if you a) can make it to the next good stance and b) are willing to place less gear to run it to said stance a 70m can REALLY speed up longer routes. If however, you CAN'T take advantage of that extra 10m then there's no point in hauling it along. I do know of several areas where developers were setting the rap routes specifically for 70m (35m rap).

- I believe single pic sheaths are considered the more durable of the two sheath weave styles.
- rope durability will go up with thickness to some degree. The reason being is that the manufacturer can allocate more weight/meter of the rope to SHEATH thickness than the core.

I for one prefer a rope on the larger end of 9mm or even up to 10.2 simply because of cut resistance. Those skinny lines give me the willies They're all well and good for bolted, overhanging sport but running over roof edges or flakes etc etc gives me pause.

I'm currently running a 9.8mm single pic Edelweiss in 70m. I really like it. I'm also pretty interested in the Beal Diablo for my next rope...

Ryan Watts · · Bishop, CA · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 25

I have a mammit infinity 9.5 60m and have been pretty happy with it. My next rope will prob be a 70m though. Not so much for linking pitches but it seems a lot of the places I climb (e.g. Eldo) rapping is more convenient with a 70m. My buddy has a serenity 70m and its the same weight as my 60m infinity (by feel, don't know the actual specs). It's seen plenty of use and its still fine.

Tony B · · Around Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 24,665
ChefMattThaner wrote:so just a bit of thread drift here, is 70m really the best length for multi-pitch??? I was thinking about upgrading to a 70m just because of all the crags around here that are being developed with 70m ropes in mind. Not to mention I thought it might be a nice addition for multi pitch routes to more easily link together pitches and raps. Extra weight and rope to pull on each pitch is definitely a downfall. Anyone with 70m ropes that do a lot of multi pitch care to offer your opinion?
Well, I climb 90% multi-pitch, except when it isn't multi-pitch because I just ran them all together.
I also climb almost exclusively on 70M ropes - that's just how it evolved for me.

If you like gear every 5-10' that isn't likely to work out for you, but if you put some space in there, you'll find that drag is not a big issue and that the Diamond is only 4 pitches long...
ChefMattThaner · · Lakewood, co · Joined May 2013 · Points: 246
Tony B wrote: the Diamond is only 4 pitches long...
This is honestly one of my main reasons, D7 and all of the other long alpine routes would be awesome linked together. Not to mention the amount of time you save if you can even just eliminate one rap from a multi rap pitch.
beensandbagged · · smallest state · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 0

Half ropes are hard to beat, I have climbed on them for years and the only time they were a bore was on friction dragging two ropes up a slab has it's drawbacks. For wandering or long routes they are great if you have to escape the benefits are obvious, also on the tough move looking down and seeing two ropes is always supportive.

Tom Caldwell · · Clemson, S.C. · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 3,623

Twins/half rope. I like the Metolius 7.8. They have lasted me several years of frequent use. As light as a 10mm, but still very durable. The infinty is awesome as well, but you still need another rope for decent.

Nick Sweeney · · Spokane, WA · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 969

I have a Mammut 9.8 70m that I love. I believe it's called the Tusk.

Tony B · · Around Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 24,665

Bluewater 9.4's were great when they were the 'dominator' but has anyone tried the new ones?

Tony B · · Around Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 24,665
ChefMattThaner wrote: D7 and all of the other long alpine routes would be awesome linked together. Not to mention the amount of time you save if you can even just eliminate one rap from a multi rap pitch.
OK then... have you considered twin/double 70M's? Then you really start knocking the raps out and you may cut some of the potential drag on long wandering pitches.
Sam M · · Austin, TX · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 0

Petzl Fuse 9.4 has held up well for me on multiple rock types including the coarsest granite I have ever seen at Enchanted Rock.. No Frays, looks almost new. Isn't ice fast on the belay and has a good hand. Super light overall for a 70m

T Howes · · Bend, OR · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 20

I have a 9.2 Mammut Revalation that I'll use for alpine. It saves a little weight on the hike in, though the weight savings are marginal when I'm still hiking in 15-20 cams. It's not better or worse than other single ropes I've used.

I do like that it has a dry coating. I think it makes the rope sheath a little more durable and abrasion resistant.

When I can, I like to use double ropes for multi-pitch. I will occasionally pair my single with another skinny single rope instead of hauling a second rope for rappels.

ChefMattThaner · · Lakewood, co · Joined May 2013 · Points: 246
Tony B wrote: OK then... have you considered twin/double 70M's? Then you really start knocking the raps out and you may cut some of the potential drag on long wandering pitches.
Not until now I haven't... Fuck! I thought I had almost made a decision. Guess the girlfriend is going to have to figure something else out for Christmas, looks like I have more ropes to fondle :)
MRock · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 10

Another +1 for sterling nano. It handles great, durable (for the width), and it's really light. Less surface area of rope = less rope drag? It's a lot better than my 10.5+ dinosaur.

Tony B · · Around Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 24,665
MRock wrote:Another +1 for sterling nano. It handles great, durable (for the width), and it's really light. Less surface area of rope = less rope drag? It's a lot better than my 10.5+ dinosaur.
Just enjoying the thought of that... the flashback to when we all had 11mm's and a 10.5 was a skinny rope - and we were worried about durability and strength on those.
Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480
Tony B wrote:Bluewater 9.4's were great when they were the 'dominator' but has anyone tried the new ones?
I used a friend's Icon for a couple days. The Icon and the Wave are both improved over the Dominator from what I've been told. I ordered a 70M Wave 9.3mm after speaking with a couple of Bluewater owners..

That doesn't mean I know the best is..
slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,103
Tony B wrote: And I do advocate 70m ropes, so long as you are willing to put in less gear and run that thing t the end, it pays. I do it with great frequency. Buywer beware - running a 70M pitch will give you a hellova long fall if you pitch off at the end. 10-20% rope stretch *70M of rope... just saying.
fall will probably be shorter if you place more gear (in more ways than 1). just sayin.

:)
Alan Doak · · boulder, co · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 120

For linking pitches, I prefer simul-climbing on a shorter rope with a micro-traxion, rather than using a 70m rope. It's lighter, allows longer leads, less rope drag, keeps the climbers a bit closer together for better communication....

Last season, my partner and I did East Buttress of El Cap in 3 pitches with a 60m rope (50m might have been better) and 2 micro-traxions.

Russ Keane · · Salt Lake · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 392

Skinny ropes RULE. I am loving the sound of a 9.2 as my main multi-pitch rope. I agree that you are not going to be falling on the damn thing and wearing it down. Mainly you want a rope that has a beautiful sliding aesthetic feel. Skinnier is so stylish.

Currently I have a 9.5 mammut infinity and it's quite nice, but I will go smaller with my next one.

Joshua Payne · · Los Alamos, NM · Joined May 2013 · Points: 55

Get a pair of twin / double 70m ropes, use them mostly as doubles. Doubles just have so many advantages over singles on long routes, especially if the route is windy.

1. 2x 70m ropes means you can rap off of just about anything.
2. 70m ropes allow you to link pitches more easily. I've done 900' of sustained 5.7-5.8 in 4 pitches with a little bit of simuling towards the end of each pitch.
3. Doubles significantly reduce rope drag. This comes in handy when linking 2 pitches to a single 70m pitch.
4. You can rap using only 1 strand of a double / twin rope. Comes in handy for soloing the flatirons and rapping down.
5. Weight. 2x 7.8mm x 70m doubles is about the same as 1x 9.8mm x 70m single. This is big when you do routes that require long approaches and double rope rappels.

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115
Joshua Payne wrote:Get a pair of twin / double 70m ropes, use them mostly as doubles. Doubles just have so many advantages over singles on long routes, especially if the route is windy. 1. 2x 70m ropes means you can rap off of just about anything. 2. 70m ropes allow you to link pitches more easily. I've done 900' of sustained 5.7-5.8 in 4 pitches with a little bit of simuling towards the end of each pitch. 3. Doubles significantly reduce rope drag. This comes in handy when linking 2 pitches to a single 70m pitch. 4. You can rap using only 1 strand of a double / twin rope. Comes in handy for soloing the flatirons and rapping down. 5. Weight. 2x 7.8mm x 70m doubles is about the same as 1x 9.8mm x 70m single. This is big when you do routes that require long approaches and double rope rappels.
All of these points are true. An additional benefit of having a double rope system is that you *can* lead on just one half rope. Really, its fine, you won't die. I'd hardly recommend this for something that you'll be whipping off repeatedly, but it is a great option for easy (like 5.6) alpine routes that you don't want to solo, but also don't want to carry the full weight of a single rope.

That said, a double rope system isn't the best choice for all circumstances, and it is also worth having a nice 9.5 70m single rope option too. A single is always easier handling than a set of doubles, with less chance of tangling, etc. The single is also easier and less annyoing for the leader, especially on straight in, desert-style cracks (doubles are more likely to get caught up in you feet when jamming). If you are climbing a long route with mostly straight crack pitches, which you will be walking off or that can be easily rapped with one 70, then it is definitely preferable to just use the single. Also, a single rope is better if trying to climb pitches that are really at your physical limit, since one rope requires less thought and management, especially on straight pitches. Lastly, for a steep/hard multipitch rope, using a single with a tag line can allow you to haul the pack on crux pitches, which can be nice.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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