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> Valley of the Moon
> Patina Wall
Lady Smith
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 1.8 from 6
votes
Routes in Patina Wall
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5.11 in your gym T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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870 Pump S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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A Call to Arms S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Borderline S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Full Auto S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Have Guns Will Travel S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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L1A1 S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Lady Smith T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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M11 S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Street Sweeper S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Tec-9 S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Keli Balo |
| Page Views: | 1,103 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | jeffblankman on Jan 6, 2014 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
Climb the corner/buttress left of the bolts using face holds and a crack in the corner, stemming between the wall and the buttress. Relatively easy climbing through the bolts.
Clip the third bolt and make some balancey moves on small, tenuous holds (crux) to establish yourself in the crack--which is thin (fingers) at first, but widens quickly to hands.
Easier climbing in the somewhat flaring hand crack about 15-20 feet until a small bulge/roof (2nd crux). Hands thin out again at/above the roof for some awkward/tricky moves with decent feet.
Anchor is 10 feet above the roof.
Clip the third bolt and make some balancey moves on small, tenuous holds (crux) to establish yourself in the crack--which is thin (fingers) at first, but widens quickly to hands.
Easier climbing in the somewhat flaring hand crack about 15-20 feet until a small bulge/roof (2nd crux). Hands thin out again at/above the roof for some awkward/tricky moves with decent feet.
Anchor is 10 feet above the roof.
Location
This route is far left on the Patina Wall--up the gully about 50 ft. from Tec-9. I do not believe it is in the San Diego County guidebook. It is on a hand-drawn topo of the wall (by Chris Hubbard climbingtoposofsandiego.com), farthest route out left.
It starts in a right-facing corner just to the right of a pillar with some cool-looking hueco features at the base (see BETA photo). Look for three bolts that end at an undulating hand crack.
It starts in a right-facing corner just to the right of a pillar with some cool-looking hueco features at the base (see BETA photo). Look for three bolts that end at an undulating hand crack.
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