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Training Holds

Original Post
Justin Sanford · · Broadalbin, New York · Joined May 2009 · Points: 555

Trying to gather some ideas from the climbing community.

I have been designing/shaping climbing holds for a couple of years now for various climbing hold companies and every once and awhile I will mold my own unique line of holds for my own personal production.

Recently I have been focusing on training holds, system holds, etc. for my own personal lineup and was wondering what people are interested in seeing these days.

So far, I have designed system pinch blocks that offer (6) different grip positions that are ideal for 45 degree walls but are also very effective to use as pinch blocks with a loading pin and free weights to train pinch strength without an available climbing wall. I have designed various campus rung concepts, my latest being a screw on system tile that offers (4) different campus rung depths to offer the climber the most bang for their buck. I am in the process of refining large sloper campus rungs with a hollow backing that mimic the old PCV campus rungs that you may be familiar with.

Anything that interests you in particular? Just trying to brainstorm for future carving sessions. I would appreciate any input that you might have. If you have something in particular that you would like personally, shoot me a message and maybe we could work something out. Thanks in advance!

Nate Reno · · Highlands Ranch, CO · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 156

I don't climb inside very much or at that many different places, so I could be missing something that's generally already out there (or more frequent than what I encounter where I go) but...
Main thing I miss/would like to see more of on indoor holds are one-directionaly type holds that could be used as sidepulls or underclings as handholds, but not usable at all as feet afterwards, probably using sloped+slick surface. I encounter this all the time climbing outside, but very often, some sort of sidepull/underclingy type hold inside is perfectly usable (and often easy to use) foothold after getting above it. This seems to lend to indoor routes where the footholds seem pretty easy to use vs outside.

Justin Sanford · · Broadalbin, New York · Joined May 2009 · Points: 555

Nate- Thanks for the suggestion/comment. I currently have a couple of dual texture climbing hold sets (edges, slopers, incuts, and jugs) that would work well for what you have described. Happy climbing!

Rui Ferreira · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jul 2003 · Points: 903

It would be nice to have small symmetric holds for system walls. Currently the tiles used for system walls are mostly overkill and not very useful for Power training at maximum conditions.

The idea is to have mirror images of each hold so problems can be done symmetrically, once to the left and once to the right so the handholds are stressing the fingers/hands equally as opposed to using the same hold twice - resulting in different loadings for the left/right hand or foot in the problem sequence.

These holds need to be small and should include mostly pockets and crimping edges.

frankstoneline · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 30

mirrored slopers. I've been trying to find a set to supplement the not-awesome sloper choices on my board, but everything i like only comes as a single element of a set, so even if I found something that could pass for mirrored, I would have to buy 2 sets to get a pair which is $$$$.

Brendan N · · Salt Lake City, Utah · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 405

Check out Atomik Frankstonline. You could try calling them and having two of the same holds poured, they are very customer centric and have outfitted many system walls.

Rui Ferreira · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jul 2003 · Points: 903

"You could try calling them and having two of the same holds poured, they are very customer centric and have outfitted many system walls."

I do not want two of the same hold...I want their mirror image, so the fingers on the left hand for example have the same position on its corresponding hold as the fingers of the right hand...

Brendan N · · Salt Lake City, Utah · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 405
Rui Ferreira wrote: so the fingers on the left hand for example have the same position on its corresponding hold as the fingers of the right hand...
If the hold is mirrored down its center line, like the Atomik Simple Series generally are, then your finger positions will be mirrored across hands.
If you are in europe Core does similar sets.
Rui Ferreira · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jul 2003 · Points: 903
Brendan N. (grayhghost) wrote: If the hold is mirrored down its center line, like the Atomik Simple Series generally are, then your finger positions will be mirrored across hands. If you are in europe Core does similar sets.
Yes, finally a company making holds gets it right for system board training. The Core holds are what I'm after.

Thanks,
keanefane · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 0

Training can improve if not even change a person's life in many different ways. After I started training in martial arts, I started losing weight, got stronger and faster and more confident.

kung fu Brisbane

Capt. Impatient · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 0

Frankstoneline--- check out Detroit rock climbing company drcc.com. They have some nice training holds. May I ask what hangboard you have?

For some reason atomik has HIGH shipping charges. Like 22.00 the last time I went to order something so I canceled it. Their lost.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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