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Tahquitz Descent beta

Original Post
K-Tanz · · Phoenix, AZ · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 211

Hey all ,
I have never been to Tahquitz but am looking to get out there this weekend. I am interested in climbing "Fingertrip" (among others) on the West face but can't seem to find any descent Beta. What is the descent like for this? Walkoff, rap stations etc? Any help would be really appreciated!

Ryan Strickland · · Idyllwild, CA · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 127

It's not difficult if you know where to start.

From the top of Fingertrip, walk up the slabs and blocky terrain for a few minutes until you see two garage-sized boulders with bushes and trees growing in between and around them off towards the right. Scramble up easy blocks between these two large boulders. As soon as you are between them, immediately go down and right, through some small trees to a short steep section. Down-climb this using chimney moves with giant handholds. From here, you zig-zag down the rock on ledges, with a few butt-slides. Generally trend left when facing out on your way down. Once you reach the ground, follow a loose trail down to the Open Book and hang a right towards your bags.

I highly recommend you buy a guidebook from Nomad Ventures in Idyllwild. It'll be worth the investment so you can be sure you're climbing the route you want.

Xan Calonne · · Yucca Valley · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 61

+1 for Ryan's descent info, about as un-cryptic as possible. If you're on track there is one exciting moment on the good holds Ryan described and otherwise you're totally solid. +2 for buying the guide. I feel that climbing beyond the first pitch of many routes at Tahquitz can seem confusing as there are many seemingly viable options of ascent, make sure you pick the right one for your ability!

dholte · · Mountain View, CA · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 491

this is pretty helpful
youtube.com/watch?v=ZYZkEoA…

if someone is just above you / below you on fingertrip, as is often the case, you could tell them you've never done the descent and perhaps they'll wait for you / you wait for them.

also, if you miss the traverse on the second pitch you end up on some 5.11 area, so study that topo! have fun! hows the weather out there by the way?

fossana · · leeds, ut · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 13,318

See guide book preview pages 38-9 for another description with topo. There's also a photo of the boulder that marks the start of the friction descent here.

I would bring a copy of the N Gully descent just in case. It's definitely worthwhile having a guidebook there.

Ralph Swansen · · Boulder CO · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 761

I agree, get the guidebook. Very difficult place to find the routes. most difficult that I've visited. And that sucks after hiking all the way up that sucker. Great climbs tho.

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

The Friction Route descent is difficult to find if you have never done it before - even with the guidebook and video.

It would behoove you to have someone show you your first time.

K-Tanz · · Phoenix, AZ · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 211

Thanks for all the beta!
I am constantly lost so I will take all the help I can get. Sounds like I will be starting early in anticipation of some cryptic route finding!

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 349

K-TANZ.... just don't repeat the "Fitchens Folly".

Have fun, it might be windy.

dholte · · Mountain View, CA · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 491

Also, there is USUALLY a train kern by the start of the friction descent, right before you have to downclimb a small 4th class-5.0 chimney, the main issue is that this trail kern is usually ~6inches tall.

K-Tanz · · Phoenix, AZ · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 211

I don't need to repeat Fitchen's Folly as I am a folly first ascentionist. Like your friends who totally saw Radiohead in a little pub in England when they were taking a year off to find themselves, once someone has catastrophically messed something up I just secure my cashmere scarf, button my P-coat, and turn my P-F Flyers around...that said what is "Fitchen's Folly"? I would hate a repeat.

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 349

K-Tanz..... I like your attitude.

I will tell you. Look in the Guide Book for the route "Fitchen's Folly"? The old book told the true story, I don't know about the new ones, cause I don't really go look at new GB's ....

But Joe Fitchen was/is a climber from way back in the day, even befor me.... He was looking for the proper way down, in the winter, he slipped on the snow before he got to the decent and fell all the way to the bottom!!! He walked away unhurt..... later in the spring they put up a climb that followed the "line" of his decent....

now you know the Rest of The Story.

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 349

FYI.... the best and quickest way down ... down climb "the trough."

once you have done it a few times.... its easy.

Pete Bohler · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2007 · Points: 25

That video is somewhat helpful, but the world looks pretty different (and a lot dizzier) through a GoPro.

If you're attempting to watch it, the descent starts somewhere around 2 minutes in.

I've never thought the descent was very tricky--it follows lines of weakness all the way down, and there are good holds. It's a bit difficult to locate from above, but I found it on my own the first time by studiously following the guidebook description.

K-Tanz · · Phoenix, AZ · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 211

I did indeed make it down alive! I was kind of expecting cairns but they were conspicuously absent. It took a little while to find but happened eventually! I actually spotted the descent a little ways away and told my partner "if we can't find this descent I think that system of trees and ledges will totally get us down!"

And I am an old school trad master. I climb strictly with hemp ropes and all I eat before I shred the gnar is gasoline soaked ganja from that Yosemite plane crash. After I rope up and chop come bolts with my bare hands I make dub step beats with nothing but uprooted trees which I slam against my abs.

Thanks for the beta though guys! Can't wait to get back here. Temps were perfect in the sun!

Pete Bohler · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2007 · Points: 25

Not to hijack the thread, but how was the weather up there?

Thanks!

Ryan Strickland · · Idyllwild, CA · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 127

Weather is perfect. Spent all day yesterday up there climbing on the south face. No snow on descent or the entire south face. I'm pretty sure we were the only party on the rock.

The north face is probably out of commission for most people until later in the season; there is snow on most ledges. The west face will be hit or miss, in regards to snow, depending on how much sun the route gets. For instance, the Trough and Angel's Fright see almost no sunshine at this time of year.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern California
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