Yellow Brick Road
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British PG13
Avg: 1.9 from 7 votes
Type: | Trad, 180 ft (55 m) |
FA: | 1966: Bill Cummins, Steve Heim, Jan Cummins |
Page Views: | 2,151 total · 16/month |
Shared By: | Derrick Peppers on May 15, 2013 |
Admins: | Roberta Zouain, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
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Description
This route (although seldom climbed) has much to offer in the single pitch adventure category. The climbing is unique and awkward the whole way. Follow the obvious ramp left placing gear when possible until this ramp moves upward and dissipates. The crux is the last section of face climbing. Anchors are straight up despite seeing an obvious set of anchors out to the left just before the crux.
Protection
Portland Rock Climbs book states 3" but I used nothing bigger than 1". Chains at top to rap. Expect run-outs as there are very few spots for gear.
Both vintage bolts have been replaced with SS 1/2" bolts as of 10/18/14. Both old bolts were left for history's sake. It is obvious that they should not be clipped. The route is more like PG13 rating now, since any fall will be long, but clean, and on a good bolt.
Both vintage bolts have been replaced with SS 1/2" bolts as of 10/18/14. Both old bolts were left for history's sake. It is obvious that they should not be clipped. The route is more like PG13 rating now, since any fall will be long, but clean, and on a good bolt.
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