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Burlington Area

Original Post
AJ Thomas · · Chattanooga, TN · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 0

A buddy of mine and I will be in Burlington later in the spring, it will be our first time there, wondering if we can get some tips on where to go. We are looking for bouldering and sport. Thanks!

Chris Duca · · Dixfield, ME · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 2,330

Head over to Petra Cliffs and/or Outdoor Gear Exchange and purchase "Tough Schist" by Travis Peckham, though even with the book, you still might find it difficult to find some of the crags.

AJ Thomas · · Chattanooga, TN · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 0

Thanks, what areas would you recommend?

Chris Duca · · Dixfield, ME · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 2,330

Smugglers' Notch, Carcass Crag, The 82 Crag (small rack necessary to fill in the blanks on the Big Wall section; however, the 5.12 Wall is 95% bolted), Upper West, and Double Upper West. Be aware that seasonal closures for Peregrines affect some of the aforementioned areas.

anna.gutwin · · Burlington, VT · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 85

For bouldering, go to Smugglers Notch. The guidebook for that is New England Bouldering. It's about 45 min from Burlington. And don't forget to stop for beer and pizza at Piecasso in Stowe post-send.

For sport/trad check out Bolton. It has a couple different crags, my favorite is upper west. The guidebook (tough schist) is necessary, and a local is so helpful.

If you have a whole day or two for climbing, I highly recommend popping over to Rumney. As a mostly sport climber, I find the quality of routes there well worth the drive.

Have fun!

Chris Duca · · Dixfield, ME · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 2,330

Smuggs' will most likely still be socked in with snow and ice.

AJ Thomas · · Chattanooga, TN · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 0

We will be there the last week in March, not sure what the snow is like.

Derek Doucet · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 66
AJ Thomas wrote:We will be there the last week in March, not sure what the snow is like.
That's definitely a transitional time of year. We could easily still be climbing good ice in Smuggler's Notch, but you never know. For early season rock, the 82 Crag is probably your best bet. The main wall has dead southern exposure and dries quickly. The Steep Wall catches a bit less sun and seeps a bit more, but is still a real possibility. Potential wetness aside, as a rule of thumb, if the sun is shinning, temps are in the high 30s or better, and there is no wind, the 82 can be excellent. As that laundry list of criteria suggests, it's pretty hit or miss at that time of year however.

The Carcass Crag will likely still be wet, as will most of Upper West.

If it were me I'd pack ice tools, skis, and rock gear so you can cover your bases.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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