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ACE anchor replacement: final Vertigo rap
 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QN3fjPaHuPI&feature=youtu.be |
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Really nicely done. Thanks! |
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Hats off to Greg for all the excellent bolt replacement he's been doing in Eldo! |
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Thank you very much Greg for your hard work. Nicely done. |
Greg D wrote:...On a side note, is there a reason that an event that took place in this area on Sunday is not getting coverage?None that I know of. It appears that it was another common rappel accident that would have been avoided by a middle mark or a bi-pattern rope (or knots in the ends). Luckily he wasn't too terribly far from the ground when he went off one of his strands and zipped. We arrived about 10 or 15 minutes later with the intention of replacing that anchor. Best wishes to the injured - heal up. |
John Wilder wrote:nice work- i wish the developers in red rock had bothered to use bolts that we could remove like that! hats off to you, good sir, for all your hard work!Experiment with a Greenlee punch driver on those pesky studs. Not sure how it will behave in that soft rock, but it's worth trying. We're going to do some extraction tests on a portable sample of Indian Creek stone this weekend. |
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Thanks as always for your volunteer work, Greg. |
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Thanks Greg! Your hard work should provide decades of climbing fun for many. |
John Wilder wrote: I would suspect it'd be fine- Red Rock is pretty good rock alot of the time. And even if it blew out some rock, we still have to redrill the hole bigger. Unfortunately, I can't afford one of those things- I could buy two or three Bosch's for the price of one Greenlee! Thanks again for all the hard work- its always appreciated, even from those of us who dont get a chance to climb in your area!In soft rock you might not even need the Greenlee - Matt got a 3/8 - 16 threaded SDS adapter, added a coupler nut and voila!: we have a bolt spinner. In granite this technique weakens the grip enough to pull out the stud with the Greenlee, but you can't spin the bolt all the way out of the hole with just the drill. Here's a video from yesterday's tests on an Indian Creek rock: youtube.com/watch?v=Iy-b0_R… |
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Looking at the new anchor I see a big problem. One of the things I would strongly suggest is to not tighten the bolts all the way until you put the rope through and weight the anchor. This process will properly align the hangers as per the direction of the forces put on them and lessen the risks of the bolts loosening over time. |
Bruce Hildenbrand wrote:Looking at the new anchor I see a big problem. One of the things I would strongly suggest is to not tighten the bolts all the way until you put the rope through and weight the anchor. This process will properly align the hangers as per the direction of the forces put on them and lessen the risks of the bolts loosening over time.I'll re-align them next time I'm in the area with a torque wrench. I don't think the slight angle difference is enough to loosen them any time soon. |
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The bolts on Apple Strudel are in big need of updating. The first two bolts have welded shut bolt hangers with very dire consequence if they fail. The crux bolt has a real hanger but the nut is very loose. |
Bruce Hildenbrand wrote:Looking at the new anchor I see a big problem. One of the things I would strongly suggest is to not tighten the bolts all the way until you put the rope through and weight the anchor. This process will properly align the hangers as per the direction of the forces put on them and lessen the risks of the bolts loosening over time.Per your request - we adjusted the angles of the hangers.  |
Jeff G. wrote:The bolts on Apple Strudel are in big need of updating. The first two bolts have welded shut bolt hangers with very dire consequence if they fail. The crux bolt has a real hanger but the nut is very loose.Looked at these today. Need to go back with a different toolkit for removing 1/2" Rawls. Updated the first bolt on 'Untouchables'. |
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Nice work, Greg. |
