stabbing your rope

Is it something to worry about if I stab my rope with a crampon or ice tool(by accident of course). No visible damage.

If there's no visible damage than it didn't break the sheath. That means it probably didn't even reach the core of your rope, the thing that stops your falls, so there is no issue and should be fine to use

Max Supertramp wrote:dickstab it in the fartbox or just stab stab?

This is one of those things that was only funny the first time; yet, people keep using it.

I once stabbed right through the middle of my rope on a multi-pitch climb in Cody. Luckily I was literally two steps above the base and just lowered down (was seconding) and cut the damaged part off.

So yes, it does happen and if you managed to slice right through it like I did, best to break out the knife and chop it.

tough to always keep those feet and hand tools at body width or more apart, to avoid a center line chop. But for just toproping ice off fixed anchors, we have used a short section of garden hose on the climbers end to protect against such damage. Saves chances of damage if lots of climbers are going to be toproping the same route all day,,,as often occurs at ice fests where ropes are fixed for use all day.

Ryan, I am sorry to offend your sensibilities as to the relative coolness of mountainproject.com postings. I just want to be in your cool kid web club and couldn't find the 'singing hobo not a stabbing hobo' Simpson's clip.

Stepping on ropes with crampons has been wigging me out lately as well.

Why take the chance? Considering that it means only cutting at most 3m off your rope, why wouldnt you?

Brad Warne wrote:Why take the chance? Considering that it means only cutting at most 3m off your rope, why wouldnt you?

BECAUSE IT'S NOT GODDAMN DAMAGED!!!

Why don't you go cut the first 5m off your rope today and maybe another 5m tomorrow?

To be fair actually you only said no visible damage. Check and feel the section of rope for particular softness or stiffness in the core, though I doubt it is.

You know when you stab the rope. It stays stuck to the point.
Most are glancing blows, it's really hard to stab a rope. You need to hit it almost dead center. Anything less will just glance off, maybe cut a couple of sheath strands but that's about it.

If you did actually stab it into the core, cut 1.5-2 meters off.

That's why you use doubles for ice climbing. Just in case you should chop a rope half way up the route.

Im sorry I meant no visble damage to the core. It was a direct hit and there is a small cut in the sheath. I talked to a guy and he said that it isnt a problem because the core just spreads around the pick, it usually doesnt get cut. just wanted to make sure he was right. And what this about an r in the title? Can someone explain what that means to me?

I think the best way to "make sure he was right" is to get a few meters of reliable rope and pull test lengths of it to failure after stabbing them. Or read about professionals in the industry who already did that.

climber57 wrote: And what this about an r in the title? Can someone explain what that means to me?

"stabbing YOU rope"..... Really? I will refrain from all jokes at this point.

WDW4 wrote:I think the best way to "make sure he was right" is to get a few meters of reliable rope and pull test lengths of it to failure after stabbing them. Or read about professionals in the industry who already did that.

Or find the German (DAV) study where they basically danced a jig on a rope with crampons on then tested it. Result - no damage.

And no, I don't have a reference to the study, just a memory for interesting things I see here.

" I agree with everyone. Now if the OP would kindly put a goddamned "r" in the title, I could go on about my day. Unless of course you're Dr. Gonzo from Fear and Loathing, in which case carry on."

got it haha sorry

Did that once with a dullish mono. Bothered me, so I cut and inspected it. Tiny sheath damage, and as someone pointed out, the core strands spread and didn't sustain visible damage to the naked eye. If you have sharper/newer crampons, I wouldn't extrapolate from my experience.

The Alpine Club of Canada has an interesting article regarding stepping on ropes including with crampons on. It is an interesting test and results.

Scroll halfway down the page to the "Ropes and Slings" section. Then click on the "Damage from stepping on your rope" link. There is also a picture showing a crampon point sticking through a rope.

alpineclubofcanada.ca/servi…

Brian wrote:That's why you use doubles for ice climbing. Just in case you should chop a rope half way up the route.

Not sure where, in Europe where they double rope most rock climbs too? Canada? 'Sport ice climbing is mostly done on single ropes from what I've seen and most pics posted to the 'net and mags. And stick with the thicker, REAL ropes, a good 10.5 to 11 if you can. Forget your skinny 9.1 sporty rope for ice climbs, please.

Brad Warne wrote:Why take the chance? Considering that it means only cutting at most 3m off your rope, why wouldnt you?

Wise decision. I have a few 67 meter ropes in my gear stash.

I know this post is over a year old but I stumbled upon it while searching for info about this topic. So figured I'd share what I learned here just in case.
I put my crampon thru my rope this winter ice climbing. It was a BD Sabretooth and I put the horizontal front point right thru the rope. The rope was stuck to my point well enough that I had to knock it off with my axe. I chose to cut my rope as the prudent move since there was likely core damage based upon the carnage I saw. I examined the damaged section after removing it though. So after a serious crampon core shot I was left with about 10% of the core damaged. The core was 10 main strands each made of 3 smaller strands. I'll try to add pics to show damage. Basically about 3 of the smaller strands had been severed or mostly cut. Seeing this made me glad I cut the rope as saving 1.5m isn't worth it. But I will say I was surprised how little damage there was for what seemed like a massive blow to the core. This was a new rope, maybe third time out for the winter, 9.8 single rope. There is something to be said for how much the core fibers can spread around an object apparently. I was expecting much more damage but then again I am glad I cut it as 10% is too much to me personally.

This was the visible damage to sheath.

Some of the cut core strands from one main strand.