Searching for Chimney routes

I'm training for Epinephrine and trying to find routes to prepare for the chimney section of the climb. I would greatly appreciate any suggestions.

Same here. Heading to RR in April. Crackerjack at Table Rock and second pitch of Fruit Loops at Rumbling Bald were a start for me. Looking for some others if anyone has suggestions.

Chimneys of Epi aren't particularly hard or run out. Crackerjack is a good suggestion. There is a route at hidden wall at the glass that would fit the bill and can be tr'ed after leading pitch one of carboman. Fat dog at the south safe would be an easy entrance to the wide

The route immediately left of Fruit Loops that starts in the chimney would be another good training route. I believe there are two bolts in the chimney. Eventually you end up on FL just below the first belay, so you could link this with the 2nd pitch. The climb has it's own 5.11+ finish, but the logical finish on is FL.

At Looking Glass, Pepper Pot Tube, the 2nd pitches of Odyssey and Dum De Dum Dum should help with hone those skills even if they aren't exactly chimneys.

Though called OW climbing I def got completely inside the thing. A spooky lead but I'm sure it can be TR'd after climbing the cool crack to its right.

mountainproject.com/v/name-…

Epinephrine will cure of ever wanting to climb chimneys again.

Do get familiar with chimney climbing before getting on Epinephrine, mostly just so you don't waste all you energy on 3 pitches down low. Chimneys are pretty straight forward after you do a few though. As far as training, I would probably focus more on being able to efficiently climb 2000+ feet of mostly 5.9 and then do a 2 hour walk off.

The chimneys might slow you down a wee bit, but movingly smoothing through the route as a whole will make it or break it. The descent has seen many epics because of night fall.

Good luck and enjoy!

If you're coming out west to climb Epi and you're well-trained on chimneys/stemming when you make it here, you might consider hitting Sandthrax canyon afterwards.

canyoneeringusa.com/utah/no…

Coupla hours of high, sometimes scary stemming 50 feet off the deck and a funky 11ish offwidth crux (that you can aid). It's a blast.

2nd pitch of FL at rumbling bald and the chimney below it to the left are both a lot of fun, and easy to combine. The unknown chimney towards the left of cereal buttress is also a lot of fun. My favorite chimney in the area is the first pitch of the sperm at looking glass, it's a great route, a lot of fun, and easy to protect.

I've actually been thinking about this question for a few days. While it probably won't really be in season, the crux pitch of the womb has the best, albeit short, section of chimney climbing that I've done in the SE.

But probably the best chimney to train on would be at the hanging chain wall. There is a 5.8 very wide chimney that would be very similar to the long ones you'll encounter on Epi. I don't know the name of it, but it's there and you can't miss it. I believe it even has a bolted anchor on top so you can do laps. That's where I would go.

the all too short squeeze chimney section of the sperm is actually the best mimic of Epi. The rest are either too easy or way too hard (i.e the womb). Like someone said though, your ability to do high mileage in a given day is way better indicator. The chimney's are really not hard and far from the crux of the route (at least when i did it). At a very leisurely pace I did it car to car without a problem. Start early, bring a head lamp.