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Routes in Allen's Ridge Area
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Alpenbock Crack T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Cavity Chimney T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Hanging Slab Gully WI3 |
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Hanging Slab Right - Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Steinfell Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Trench Warfare T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Ice, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | ?? |
| Page Views: | 3,574 total · 20/month |
| Shared By: | Brian in SLC on Dec 2, 2009 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
A short steep section of ice with an upper lower angle gully in a nice location.
Pitch 1: 60 feet of ice with two short steps (8 feet and 15 feet). Ends in a fixed anchor perfect for catching a few extra laps or schooling folks. Right side of the falls has fun features linkable in little to no ice conditions.
Pitch 2+: Continue up low angle gully. At 120 feet theres a tree with a sling for a rappel up on the climbers right and at another 120 feet above that, theres another tree on the climbers right with a rap sling as well.
Note: take care with any new snow or rapidly changing temperatures as the gully above would be an avalanche chute (note how far up that gully is missing trees).
Pitch 1: 60 feet of ice with two short steps (8 feet and 15 feet). Ends in a fixed anchor perfect for catching a few extra laps or schooling folks. Right side of the falls has fun features linkable in little to no ice conditions.
Pitch 2+: Continue up low angle gully. At 120 feet theres a tree with a sling for a rappel up on the climbers right and at another 120 feet above that, theres another tree on the climbers right with a rap sling as well.
Note: take care with any new snow or rapidly changing temperatures as the gully above would be an avalanche chute (note how far up that gully is missing trees).
Location
This ice climb is located to the east of Super Slab and to the west of Hanging Slab. Locate the distinctive cut out where the hanging slab has pulled out of the cliff above and just to the right, theres a gully: voila, thats the climb. Easily scoped from the road in LCC. When the snow gets deeper near the mouth of Little Cottonwood, this climb goes under.
Use the standard approach for Trench Warfare or the Steinfell Route, taking note the old remnants of a road and quarry efforts in the area. Couple options for approach. Cross the creek, go up through the woods and instead of aiming for the gully directly, stay left in the pine trees following a faint trail which leads to Trench Warfare area, then when nearly to that route (big slab with alcove under it and a roof crack) cut right to the gully.
Or, hike in from the right side and follow the lower angle gully to the base of the route. Can be a bit brushy and scrambly.
Use the standard approach for Trench Warfare or the Steinfell Route, taking note the old remnants of a road and quarry efforts in the area. Couple options for approach. Cross the creek, go up through the woods and instead of aiming for the gully directly, stay left in the pine trees following a faint trail which leads to Trench Warfare area, then when nearly to that route (big slab with alcove under it and a roof crack) cut right to the gully.
Or, hike in from the right side and follow the lower angle gully to the base of the route. Can be a bit brushy and scrambly.
Protection
Selection of ice screws. If venturing above the initial steep falls, might be prudent to toss in a selection of pitons should the ice be thin and protection desired.
Slings on trees on the upper pitches were in place for the 2004/2005 season.
First short pitch has a fixed anchor with rappel rings.
Slings on trees on the upper pitches were in place for the 2004/2005 season.
First short pitch has a fixed anchor with rappel rings.
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