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Best hard climbs at the gunks

Original Post
CCliffe · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2011 · Points: 125

What are some of the good hard climbs here?? In the 12/13 range. Pictures are cool, if you have any.

Avi Katz · · Seattle, WA · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 260

Use the search feature.
Usually the ones with more stars are better.

Rogerlarock Mix · · Nedsterdam, Colorado · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 5

Nectar Vectar is a good un.

And if that's too long of an approach then check out Creature Feature.

john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640

I think the best hard routes at the Gunks are at Skytop..

S. Neoh · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 35

I am in no way a Gunks expert or regular but here's what I know;
John made a good point about Sky Top (Vandals). More accessible are Slammin The Salmon and To Be or Not To Be (direct finish) at The Nears, both of which I have been on with a TR. About .12a for both and I believe protection is R for both. I have a friend who has led Kansas City (.12a) also at The Nears and he said the realclimbing is over rather quick and the gear (some fixed?) is OK/good. There is also No Solution, .12a R/X (Nosedive/Retribution face) near the Ubefall.
I once asked HughH for his favorite Gunks hard climb. He answered "Sticky Bun Power" which from what I can gather is .12 R.
There are a whole bunch of hard stuff over at Lost City, the most famous two with reputation to be quality climbs are Survival of The Fittest (.13) and Persistence. Persistence is "only .11d" but it felt way harder than that for me on TR.
Have fun and climb safe.

BigA · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 0
vimeo.com/m/12057089

This thing is pretty cool and hard...
Insert name · · Harts Location · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 46
Morgan Patterson · · NH · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 8,960
BigA wrote:http://vimeo.com/m/12057089 This thing is pretty cool and hard...
what climb/wall/grade?
Nick Goldsmith · · Pomfret VT · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 440

Damn! sounds like them boys and gurls need to learn how to drill;)

Logan Schiff · · Brooklyn, NY · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 60
Morgan Patterson wrote: what climb/wall/grade?
Looks like Twilight Zone (13b). Another 13b by Russ Clune at Peterskill:

climberism.com/russ-clunes-…
BigA · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 0

It's not twilight. This route is called Ozone and climbs directly up into twilight zones roof, and then links into the roof of French connection.

BigA · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 0

A brief list of the best routes 12 and up (that are legal, ie not skytop) would read
Supper's Ready, Tiers of Fear, Bone Hard, Projectile, Kansas City, Sirens, Gravity's Rainbow, Nectar Vector, Intruders, Survival, Clairvoyance, Twilight Zone, Cybernetic Wall, Ozone...

john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640

Don't forget kama Sutra at the Trapps.. and that nasty little 11+..Wasp ? The Sting ? something like that

S. Neoh · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 35

Ah, The Sting. Good one. Maybe .12- for short climbers. I tried it on TR. The low crux will be pretty spicy for the vertically challenged. The upper crux can be protected well but it was a BIG throw for me. I thought Bird Brain was a little easier at .11+ but harder to protect and rated R. Road Warrior (.11+ R) is also near BB and Slammin' the Salmon.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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