Older Guy in the Black Corridor?

I was in Red Rock for the past week and spent a couple of days in the corridor. Every day I was there I saw an older man who would come by in the afternoon and watch people climb. He seemed to know the area well and was often commenting on a given route someone was climbing or offering beta and advice to climbers. I gave him a belay up a 10 I had a TR set up on, which he climbed with ease. Anyone know who he is? Just asking out of curiosity.

Or Jack. White hair? I climbed a lot last April with Jack who is a Vegas local. Late 60s maybe?

If he had a slight accent, I would guess Wolfgang.

He did have an accent. Thanks for the info guys.

That guy was there last week while I was there. He kept trying to give my friend unsolicited beta. He went away for a bit, then came back and told my friend that he had gone to another wall and held a route for them, which they weren't climbing.

Yup, sounds like a classic "Wolfgang sighting"--not uncommon in Red Rock, much like big horn sheep sightings, burro sightings, desert tortoise sightings, and tarantula sightings. BLM may even have an exhibit on him at the Visitor's Center.

Seemed friendly enough when I met him. I guess there's no room for a little eccentricity in climbing anymore?

Colonel Mustard wrote:Seemed friendly enough when I met him. I guess there's no room for a little eccentricity in climbing anymore?

Are trustafari included in the eccentricity with which you mention?

John Wilder wrote: Yeah, Wolfgang is a weird dude. Wanders around from crag to crag, saying everything is rated wrong (that 5.12a is only 5.11b, etc, etc) and spraying down weird beta that no one can understand. Nice enough dude, I guess, but I've never even seen him climb despite seeing him about 60% of the time i'm out at the sport cliffs...

I used to see him climbing a lot back in the late 90's and early 0X's

He's pretty old now...so I get if he can't climb much anymore. I've heard he likes to freak out the ladies a bit. I know a few have been totally scared of him. Let's face it...many climbers are out there...add to that years in sin city....bound to yield a character!!!

Just think of the 60+ Wilder...bound to be a character! :-)
And just IMAGINE the 60+ Killis...oh my NOW that will be a character!

I climbed with Wolfgang a couple of years ago, and he seemed ok to me, climbed and belayed just fine.He doesn't live an average life-style, Many climbers don't. He is probably a bit more unusual than most, but not harmful, at least in my experience.

I've got a good one about this fellow....

It was about 3 years ago and we we're sport climbing somewhere in the Calico Hills, about 10 routes or so to the left of Yak Crack, and my buddy was hanging on a bolt contemplating the powerful crux before him. This fellow cruises by and with a strong German or Austrian accent says (I'm paraphrasing a little, but its pretty close) "the guidebook calls it 10d by for my wimpy fingers I call it 11a." Then he says to my buddy (exact quote) "you've got a good belayer, you've got to power through." While this curious stranger had no idea if in fact I was a good belayer (but I am), my buddy took his advice, stopped hanging on the bolt, stepped it up, and powered through the crux.

Awesome! Until this day I still remember to myself when faced with a hard move "you've got a good belayer, you've got to power through"!

I do not post often but since Wolfgang is the topic of conversation I too will add some fun, hopefully, facts for all to enjoy.

1. Wolfgang is an OG in terms of acrobatics and what is now referred to as Cirque. He appeared on the Ed Sullivan show during the 60's to perform. He told me this so if I am incorrect or just gullible, please excuse my mis-information.

2. A few summers ago I watched, along with a few others, as Wolfgang red pointed Bubbilicious (11c?) at Robber's Roost. He did this with minimal effort.

3. Wolfgang knows the Calico Hills inside and out. Anyone wanting to develop new rock grappling areas might give him a shout. Or Killis.

4. Some years back my wife and I were at the Gallery. She was trying Yaak Crack. Wolfgang, speaking German to his friend, basically said that some rock climbs were just not meant for girls. My wife, in German, said something to the avail of you (Wolfgang) should stop rock climbing then, go f--k yourself with a carabiner, then some other choice things. She sent Yaak Crack and told Wolfgang it was an easy warm-up that he was projecting and that he may want to consider climbing something within his range of abilities. She then went and did Fear and Loathing and told him it was a bit hard for a 10d. Ironically, we gave him a ride out of the loop. He was very polite.

5. Wolfgang was "a part of" the first ascent parties for many of the classic sport routes at Sweet Pain and The Pier. As I understand it from a few others he accompanied Leo Hensen to the cliff as he FA'd many of the sport pitches he bolted in the Calico Hills. He most likely did early ascents of Leo's routes. He has also been present while I have bolted routes at Red Rock. I have heard the comment from some people, "Hey, I heard you and Wolfgang put up some new routes."

6. I run into Wolfgang from time to time when I brave the crowds at Red Rock. He is opinionated, never has any gear, is angry about grades of climbs, is a bit of a creeper, but an alright dude.

I can only hope to one day have a thread about me just like this.

Could he be one "Wolfgang Bartchelli," plate spinner on the Ed Sullivan show in the 60s?

Check out the last paragraph: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plate…

Another brief mention here: knowledgerush.com/kr/jsp/db…

Here is Wolfgang kicking your asses
Here is Wolfgang, try this at 70 plus

Sandy Crimp wrote: I used to see him climbing a lot back in the late 90's and early 0X's He's pretty old now...so I get if he can't climb much anymore. I've heard he likes to freak out the ladies a bit. I know a few have been totally scared of him. Let's face it...many climbers are out there...add to that years in sin city....bound to yield a character!!! Just think of the 60+ Wilder...bound to be a character! :-) And just IMAGINE the 60+ Killis...oh my NOW that will be a character!

WOLGANG 2016
THINK AGAIN WOLFGANG KICK YOUR ASS AT 70 plus

I have talked to him many times and always thought he was a super chill dude. In my early days of lead belaying I would sometimes have to ask him to stop asking me so many questions about what level my boyfriend climbs, where he has been, where he's climbing next, etc because I didn't want to mess up. He was always cool about it and moved on.

The last time I saw him, the entire Corridor was talking about him, though. All day people were asking, "who's that guy? He's so mean!" He must have been having a bad day cause he was very rude to us and everyone else it seems. My bf was on a 12 and Wolfgang came up talking smack about how he should stick to what he's good at and how "the 5'9s are over here.." at one point I yelled up, "you can do it!" And he added, "No, you can't!" Then again reminded us where the 5'9s were and started saying how young men are always trying to climb things they can't to try n prove something. I finally got mad and told him to mind his own effing business and to go away. Bf ended up doing the route twice while he watched. I don't know what was up his ass that day but it was really annoying.

But does Wolfgang know Hawkwind's "The Black Corridor?"

Maybe?

yeah don't knock Wolfgang. I watched him float up all the 5.11s at Sweet Pain Wall. He's retired and likes to get out and hike and climb with people as much as possible. And he's probably right, most of the Calico routes are a bit soft.

Ashley Ellwood wrote: at one point I yelled up, "you can do it!" And he added, "No, you can't!"

Lol, it might be mean, but it's also pretty 'effin funny

Was projecting The Gift back in 2013 and was struggling a bit and he appeared, seemingly out of nowhere, and muttered "The Crux is much higher" and disappeared as he came. He seemed to approach the gallery from the southeast, which is bizarre. Almost like he levitated up there and then receded into the sandstone like a spectre. I've seen him many times over the years where he approaches, offers unsolicited advice, asks for a catch, then disappears.