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cordelette diameter?

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William Rhyne · · Casper, Wyoming · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 135

What is the thinest cordelette you use? How thin can you go

20 kN · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,346
William Rhyne wrote:What is the thinest cordelette you use? How thin can you go
A few companies make cordletee with high-tech fibers (Kevlar, Technora, UHMWPE, Vectran, ect) in the 5-5.5mm range. If you REALLY need to save weight, you could get some 3mm SK-75 Dyneema and have it spliced together. Three millimeter Dyneema in a 3-piece anchor should exceed the strength of the carabiner connected to it. But at this point we are really splitting hairs over weight, and I would be seriously concerned with the sharp-edge and abrasion resistance of cord that thin.

Here is some 3mm SK-75 holding a 1200 kg motor:



I use 6mm standard nylon for my main cord, and I do not have any problems with it. Below 6mm, I would avoid nylon for most applications.
William Rhyne · · Casper, Wyoming · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 135

Thanks 20KN really cool pic!

Bill Lawry · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 1,812

Regarding all-nylon cord for multi-pitch anchors, the Mammut Hardgoods Category Manager has a different view (granted, a commercial view) ...

Although some climbers may use cord thinner than 7mm for constructing belay anchors, it is important to note just how much stronger the slings and 7mm cord are in comparison, especially when you consider that these are often weakened by knotting them and by concentrated wear at the knots. We definitely do not advise people to use 5 and 6mm cord for anchor construction, and if climbers choose to do so they should be acutely aware that they are putting themselves at extra risk by doing so and take any necessary precautions (frequent wear-checks, being extra conservative in deciding what is worn and discarding it, always placing protection specifically to protect the belay from high impact, using a dynamic belay device and techniques, terrain and belay location choices, etc)

Source: highinfatuation.com/blog/co…

Bill Lawry · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 1,812
VaGenius wrote:HM. I see people using 5 mil around here all the time. Not saying it's a smart practice, but that red tech cord for a while was ubiquitous around red rock, skethball.
5 mil nylon?
Ryan Watts · · Bishop, CA · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 25

I use 7mm cord.

That being said, I have never heard of someone dying because their cord was too thin.

That being said, I have never heard of someone having to bail because their cord was too thick.

C Williams · · Sketchy, Blackvanistan · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 1,556

I am also a huge fan of 7mm cord as it gives me a little extra confidence when there is a bunch of sharp crap around. I usually carry a couple of pre-made "equalettes" for anchors. Clip, clip and anchor! (unless the gear sucks) As soon as they start showing wear I chop em into v-thread material. I go through 5-6 every year.

Equalette

Aaron Olson · · Seattle, WA · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 5

I used the 6mm cord from the REI rolls for several years, but have recently switched over to the Mammut thin double length sling. I really like how easy it is to tie the knot after equalizing multiple pieces.

To add, if you are building a 2 piece anchor, you can double up the cord, which is plenty sufficient for equalizing. With a three piece anchor, you would use a single strand loop through each piece, but with more pieces, each strand is experiencing less force. This was my justification for the thinner cord.

Allen Corneau · · Houston, TX · Joined May 2008 · Points: 80

One more vote for 7mil. To me it's a good balance between strength/burliness and weight/bulk.

Jeff Johnston · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 110
William Rhyne wrote:What is the thinest cordelette you use? How thin can you go
I like 7mm it is a good balence of weight, bulk and useability, I find the knots easier to untie over a skinnier line.
rocknice2 · · Montreal, QC · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 3,847

7mm for me too. I tried 6 once but it wasn't encouraging enough.

Bill Lawry · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 1,812

7 mm nylon here too! :-)

DesertRat · · Flagstaff, AZ · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 196

I use 7mm. I have used 6mm and been happy with it.

Max Supertramp · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 95

6 mil

Tyler Newcomb · · New York, New York | Boston · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 81

I have 2 7mm cordlettes that I use mist often. I also have a longer 6 mm one that I don't mind using, but the length is too much to carry. For me anything above 8 is too much. My friend uses 8 and it is pretty bulky

Rob WardenSpaceLizard · · las Vegans, the cosmic void · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 130

I really like the pro cord from Mammut, I think its 6mm

Hmann2 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 30

5 mil titan cord, best stuff around!

Drew Whitley · · Dolores, CO · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 95

Bluewater 7mm lasts forever

20 kN · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,346
Rob Warden, Space Lizard wrote:I really like the pro cord from Mammut, I think its 6mm
They make it in multiple diameters, but most people probably get the 6mm. It's great stuff for sure.
Allen Corneau · · Houston, TX · Joined May 2008 · Points: 80

An interesting analysis and write-up on the strength of various cords...

"Comparative Testing of High Strength Cord"
user.xmission.com/~tmoyer/t…

If you haven't read this yet and at least reconsidered your cord of choice then I highly recommend it.

One tidbit: BW Titan can loose 47% of it's strength with just a figure-8 knot.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
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